Once upon a time, when most people thought of Mexico they were almost immediately consumed with thoughts of warm, sun-drenched beaches, cool cocktails, cozy cabanas and sprawling all-inclusive resorts. And to be honest, for a great many travelers to America’s neighbor to the south, that is still the case.  

However, there is another more cosmopolitan and nuanced vision of Mexico taking shape not so far away from the country’s popular coastal destinations and it offers a stark and intriguing contrast to what many have come to expect. And perhaps no city embodies this trend better than the country’s capital, Mexico City (Ciudad de México or CDMX, as those in the know, prefer to refer to it). 

But to be fair, Mexico City has always been something of a wonder – far ahead of its time in a multitude of ways. 

Originally built on the ruins of the ancient Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan, which was established in the 14th century, Mexico City’s history is as fascinating as it is complex. Long before the arrival of Spanish conquistadors in the early 16th century, the region that would become Mexico City was inhabited by indigenous peoples who would later come to be known as the Aztecs. To the surprise of the conquering conquistadors (and the handful of others who witnessed Tenochtitlan before war destroyed it) the capital city that the Aztecs built on a small island in the middle of Lake Texcoco was a marvel of urban planning, characterized by an intricate network of canals, causeways, and floating gardens called chinampas. Equally impressive was the city’s architecture which featured massive pyramids, temples, and a grand central plaza. 

Though the Aztec capital was largely decimated by the Spanish, it would soon be reborn as the seat of power for the Spanish colony of New Spain and meticulously re-designed with a grid layout, European-style plazas, and Spanish-style buildings, including the imposing Metropolitan Cathedral and the National Palace which were among the earliest structures built during this period. Likewise, the colonial era, saw the construction of more grand cathedrals and magnificent palaces as well as distinctive mansions and monasteries, all of which showcased the influence of Spanish Baroque architecture.  

Today, many of the structures erected during the Spanish colonial period remain, coexisting alongside an array of lively restaurants, bustling bars, boutique hotels, gleaming hi-rise buildings, department stores and other contemporary buildings. Zócalo, formerly known as the Plaza de la Constitución, is one of the best examples of this phenomenon. 

Thought of as the beating heart of Mexico City, Zócalo is one of the largest public squares in the world and has held a unique place in the city’s collective consciousness for centuries. That said, the significance of the space has less to do with size or sentimentality and everything to do with the history it embodies because, at its core, the Zócalo is a place of convergence. Surrounded by architectural wonders such as the Metropolitan Cathedral, the National Palace, and the ancient ruins of the Aztec Templo Mayor, Zócalo is a place where Mexico’s rich history and cultural heritage intersect with its present. And by present, I mean spaces like the trendy, stylishly designed rooftop bar Terraza Catedral (Cathedral Terrace) where smart cocktails and gastronomic nibbles are served as a rotating roster of DJ’s spin a mix of global pops hits, Latin rock, hip-hop and urban grooves against the backdrop of ancient Aztec ruins and the oldest and largest church in Latin America, both of which sit directly across the street from the buzzy boîte. 

It’s old meets new and it’s one of the signatures of Mexico City. 

You see, though Mexico City is steeped in history, CDMX is a thoroughly modern and thoroughly sprawling metropolis alive with culture, art, nightlife and gastronomy befitting a city that is by far the largest in North America. With a population of more than 25 million residents, Mexico City dwarfs every major American city bar none and the lively vibe and infectious energy on the streets of the city (not to mention the traffic) reflect it. 

Culturally, contemporary CDMX is an absolute wonderland. Let’s set aside for a moment the more than 2,000 buildings of historic significance in the historic city center alone and turn to the city’s impressive collection of more than 180 museums. Of particular note is the world-renowned National Museum of Anthropology (Museo Nacional de Antropologia) which is the repository of the world’s largest collection of ancient Mexican artifacts and the most visited museum in Mexico. Chock full of artifacts dating from the Pre-Classical Period, which began around 5000 BC, up through the early 16th century, the museum’s architecture and scale is as impressive as its contents. Whether anthropology is your thing or not, this museum is an absolute must see. 

Also of note is the Frida Kahlo Museum (La Casa Azul), the second most visited museum in Mexico, which is worth a gander if only to take a sneak peek into the world and tumultuous life of one of Mexico’s most iconic artists. Housed in Kahlo’s former home in the Coyoacán neighborhood, the museum provides profound insight into the artist’s work, her challenges and her inspiration in an extraordinarily intimate way. (And, as an added bonus, a visit to this museum is also a wonderful excuse to stroll the cobblestone streets of Coyoacán and explore the many charming boutiques, cafes, galleries and bookstores this corner of the city has to offer). 

Another must see museum is The Soumaya Museum (Museo Soumaya), an architecturally arresting structure showcasing the private collection of Mexican billionaire Carlos Slim. Located in the upscale Polanco neighborhood, the museum’s distinctive, futuristic design houses an eclectic and exceptional collection of artworks, including European old masters like Degas and Van Gogh, as well as Mexican art from various periods. But perhaps most impressive is the museum’s collection of sculptures by Auguste Rodin, the most important of its kind outside of France. 

Finally, a word about the gastronomy scene in Mexico City, which like the art scene, is exploding. It will come as little surprise that the street food scene in CDMX is, in a word, incredible (try Condesa Pibila in Roma Norte for starters, you won’t be disappointed). But what may come as more of a surprise to those who have yet to experience CDMX, is that the foodie scene is probably one of the best and most exciting in the world right now.  

In neighborhoods like Polanco, you’ll find some familiar favorites like KYU, Sonora Prime and Bagatelle where the food is excellent and the service punches way above its weight. However, from a gastronomic point of view, restaurants like Quintonil and Punto, both of which regularly rank in the top 20 of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, demonstrate the heights to which the food scene in Mexico City is currently soaring. These restaurants are raising the bar for all restauranteurs in CDMX and it’s evident at every turn and on every block. Whether its yakitori (try Hiyoko in the Cuauhtemoc District), a fashionable brunch in Polanco (Mandolina is an excellent choice) or a sumptuous meal at a hipster hotspot like Restaurante Máximo in Roma Norte, your taste buds are guaranteed to dance with delight at each ever more diverse, superbly prepared offering you unearth in what is fast becoming one of the most buzzed about foodie destinations anywhere on the planet.  

All of which is simply proof of Mexico City’s ceaseless ability to adapt, innovate and reinvent itself just as it has done for more than seven centuries. From its ancient Aztec roots, through conquest and revolution, CDMX has managed to seamlessly combine its dynamic history, vibrant art, blended culture and delectable cuisine into a singularly captivating cultural experience, without sacrificing and ounce of its identity. Quite the contrary, in fact. CDMX celebrates everything about where it’s been and where it’s going. And I have no doubt you will too, if given the chance to experience it.