I was a mere 18 years old the first time I visited Venice.
At the time, I fancied myself to be one of those dashing gallivants who roamed Europe exploring art, language, food and culture whilst cultivating those singular experiences and interactions that make one not simply a ‘man of the world’ but the most interesting person to invite to dinner parties to boot. I had read much about the grand tours of the bon vivants I sought to imitate throughout my youth, but nothing prepared me for the sights and emotions that swept over me when I landed in the famed La Serenissima (an apt nickname for Venice dating back to the Byzantine era that has been in use for many centuries).
Even though visions of the majesty of the French Riviera with its unabashed luxury, sun-soaked beaches and palatial yachts danced vividly at the forefront of my memory upon my arrival, they were no match for the timeless charm of this floating city, built on a lagoon, where wondrous canals and fabled streets opened a window to the glorious history, rich cultural heritage and architectural treasures of one of the most beguiling cities in the world.
With almost childlike fascination, I set out to explore this gem of a city. Beginning in the heart of Venice with the famed Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) and the breathtaking St. Mark’s Basilica, I continued on to the Rialto Bridge, which I would later experience in an entirely different light on a gondola ride along the magnificent Grand Canal. From there, the venerable Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute (La Salute) beckoned not only because I had seen countless pictures of it in books and magazines, but because its marvelous history and grandiose interiors demanded it.
Next it was off to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection on the Grand Canal in the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, which was the former home of the museum’s namesake, and now houses her personal art collection as well as notable temporary exhibitions and a stunning sculpture garden overlooking the Grand Canal. It is today one of the most important collections of European and North American art from the twentieth century in Italy including works by Rothko, Giacometti, Calder, Picasso, Dali, Mondrian and Pollock and an absolute must visit for anyone with a modicum of appreciation for the arts.
Finally, after smartening myself up, I headed over to Harry’s Bar because no grand tour would be complete without a visit to the famed bar that has hosted everyone from European royalty to American royalty, including the likes of Truman Capote, Katherine Hepburn and Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton. As I joined the well-heeled crowd that regularly gathers at the popular Venetian watering hole for a cocktail, I pondered all that I had seen and imagined all that others had witnessed in this miraculous city over the centuries.
Despite all the marvels I experienced, none stood out so much as the palaces and palazzos of Venice that I had encountered along my journey. The grandeur, the ornateness and the sheer architectural improbability of those extraordinary structures astounded me then and they still astound me today. Though many have evolved since my first visit, others remain unchanged. But all still have the same jaw-dropping appeal that left my 18-year-old self agog so many years ago.
Take for instance, The Doge’s Palace. Built in the 14th century as the residence of the Doge, the ruler of Venice, and the seat of power for the former city state, this iconic palace is at once the city’s most famous structure and also its finest example of Venetian Gothic architecture. But while its imposing size and intricate architecture are more than sufficiently awe-inspiring, the palace interiors are a masterpiece of opulence, featuring lavish chambers, magnificent council rooms, and a stunning collection of artworks by celebrated artists such as Veronese, Tiepolo, Tintoretto and Tiziano. Of particular note is the breathtaking Golden Staircase, a symbol of the city’s once immense power and staggering wealth.
Another of the most prestigious late Gothic palaces in Venice, the Ca’ d’Oro (House of Gold), dates back to the 15th century and, like the famous staircase at The Doge’s Palace, evidenced its opulence not only by its resplendent façade overlooking the Grand Canal but also its exterior walls which were once covered in gold leaf that has sadly faded away. Today, the restored palace houses the collection of Baron Giorgio Franchetti (Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca’ d’Oro) which includes furniture, paintings, medals, tapestries, bronzes and sculptures – most notably important works by Tiziano, Andrea Mantegna, Francesco Guardi and Flemish masters Jan Van Eyck and Anthony Van Dyck – as well as an inner courtyard distinguished by an impressive floor composed of ancient marble mosaics installed by the Baron himself to evoke the aura of early Christian cathedrals.
Other notable art-filled Venetian palazzos include: The Gallerie dell’Accademia, home to the largest and most important collection of Venetian art in the world, where masterpieces by renowned artists such as Canaletto, Tiziano, Giorgione and Bellini line the 37 halls of the museum, providing an excellent opportunity to immerse oneself in the city’s artistic heritage; the expansive 17th century marble palace, Ca’ Pesaro, noted for its Baroque façade, dazzling décor and magnificent frescoes, which is currently home to the International Gallery of Modern Art showcasing a vast collection of nineteenth and twentieth century master works by the likes of Klimt, Chagall, Kandinsky, Klee and Miró; Ca’ Rezzonico, another Baroque palace which was the former residence of both Pope Clement XIII (Carlo della Torre di Rezzonico) and legendary songwriter Cole Porter which is now the Museum of the 18th Century Venice, boasting a rich collection of art, furnishings, and period costumes that offer a unique glimpse into the lavish lifestyles of Venetian nobility during the 18th century; and the Palazzo Grassi an elegant palace designed in the neoclassical style and perched along the Grand Canal which presently showcases the extensive contemporary art collection of French billionaire François Pinault through a constant succession of temporary exhibitions.
For those who crave the lived experience of one of these sumptuous palazzos, Venice offers an abundance of outstanding options that offer no less grand an experience than any noble who might have resided in Venice would have expected more than two centuries ago. In fact, The Gritti Palace, the undisputed grande dame of Venetian hotels, dates back to 15th century when it served as the private residence of the Doge of Venice, Andrea Gritti, and later other noble families before becoming a private hotel in the late 19th century. Today the hotel remains evocative of its aristocratic roots in no small part due to its sweeping collection of priceless art, exceptional collection of restaurants and bars such as the exclusive Club del Doge and the über chic Bar Longhi, and opulently appointed rooms complete with rare antique furnishing, Murano glass chandeliers, and luxurious Rubelli Group fabrics.
Likewise, the elegant and historic 5-star Hotel Danieli, also boasts a profoundly noble pedigree. Comprised of three interconnecting palaces that date back to the 14th, 19th and 20th centuries (one of which was home to the noble Dandolo family which produced four family members who would serve as Doge of Venice), this extraordinary property counts lushly furnished rooms with lagoon views, an array of modern amenities complemented with restored designs by the likes of Pierre Yves Rochon and Jacques Garcia and the celebrated Restaurant Terrazza Danieli rooftop which offers spectacular views of the most notable landmarks of Venice among its many emblematic attractions.
Newer to the scene is the acclaimed Hotel Cipriani. First opening its doors in 1956, the Belmond Hotel Cipriani may not share the same connection to the heritage of the city as some of the more historic properties in Venice, but it is no less patrician in its demeanor or offerings. Moreover, the property is a more spacious affair featuring generously proportioned rooms characterized by contemporary sophistication and superlative facilities and services, including lush gardens abundant with roses and hydrangeas, the only Olympic-sized pool in central Venice, a Michelin-starred restaurant (Oro), a world-renowned spa, a tennis court and the vaunted Cip’s Club, a distinctive and exclusive venue on the Venice Lagoon offering first-rate views of San Marco square from across the water and an equally top-notch menu in one of the most romantic settings in all of Venice. Meanwhile, for those desperate for a classic palazzo experience, Hotel Cipriani also offers exquisitely appointed suites complete with original artworks, luxurious Fortuny and Rubelli fabrics and elegant marble bathrooms in the 15th Century Palazzo Vendramin, an annex separated from the main property by a floral path.
Lastly, the Aman Venice may be one of the newest properties to pop up in Venice, having only opened a decade ago in 2013, but anyone who knows the Aman brand also knows that the Aman has a keen knack for understanding luxury and environment. Set in Palazzo Papadopoli, one of the city’s eight monumental palazzos on the Grand Canal, the 24-room Aman Venice meshes history and modernity seamlessly to offer guests the best of La Serenissima. While the property’s rooms feature works by a number of Italy’s greatest artists – including 16th-century architect Sansovino and 18th-century painter Tiepolo, authentic silk wall coverings, Murano chandeliers, wood paneling, chinoiserie and painted ceilings, restrained contemporary furnishings by Jean-Michel Gathy’s tame the grandiosity of the surroundings to create an air of relaxed, effortless elegance. A serene side garden and ideal location just past the Rialto Bridge only add to the allure of Venice’s newest gem.
The august palaces and palazzos of Venice are a love letter to the city’s heady history and enduring love affair with art and beauty. Whether you choose to simply admire their facades from a gondola, explore their opulent interiors and centuries old treasure troves of art, or luxuriate in their grandeur as a hotel guest, these architectural wonders promise to not only seduce you but transport you to a bygone era where beauty and art soared beyond what seemed possible or probable and became legendary. Even for bon vivants and gallivants who believe they have seen it all, these living relics of days gone by still continue to enchant, which is a testament to the timeless appeal of the floating city on the lagoon where history, art, ingenuity and opulence converge like no other place in the world.