“I can’t see anything,” I shouted to a kayak disappearing into darkness on an especially black night. On the horizon, lightning shattered from storm clouds gathered over the Gulf of Mexico. It was the Night of the New Moon that would usher in “Día de los Muertos” – All Souls Day. There was something spiritual – ghostly even – on the sea at that late hour.  I felt excitement with a twinge of trepidation. About a half-mile offshore I wondered quietly to myself if there were sharks in these waters.

Then, suddenly, “Put your hand in,” the kayak in front shouted back.

As I dipped my hand into the murky wake of the kayak it instantly lit the water on fire. Thousands of tiny sparklers like firecrackers bursting beneath the surface scattered around my hand rendering it awash in neon light. I reached further down. Thousands – millions perhaps – of tiny phosphorescent particles swarmed across my arm. What spirit had conjured this phenomenon, I wondered.

“This is the magic of Holbox,” said the guide.

Isla Holbox is perhaps most famous for a phenomenon called the “afuera aggregation” which, outside marine biology circles, refers to the largest migration of whale sharks anywhere in the world. In season, tour operators across the island organize trips by boat or kayak for visitors to swim with the largest fish in the sea. But, when I arrived, whale shark season was more than a month gone. That being the case, I was instead recommended to take a tour by kayak to experience another phenomenon unique to Holbox: the bioluminescence.

In the past I had heard stories of beaches in Puerto Rico or Thailand where one could see the bioluminescence― particles of shimmering, neon light that wash ashore but are quickly extinguished. Nobody I knew had actually witnessed this, however, so I assumed it was an urban travel legend. I therefore remained dubious as to what could actually be seen with the naked eye, having been tricked by lush photography of the aurora borealis in Iceland several years back. But, with an affable local guide named Arnoldo leading the way, we launched two kayaks into the warm ocean water under the cover of darkness and set out in search of the lights.

For a short while we paddled along the shore, bathed in the glow not of bioluminescence, but of the lights from the hotel properties that dotted the coast. As we pointed the kayaks due north – straight out into the vast expanse of the Gulf of Mexico, I began to wonder if this was a good idea. We paddled for about 30 minutes even further into darkness. Arnoldo was several yards ahead and I feared I might lose him entirely as I squinted to make out his white polo shirt in the distance.

Finally, we arrived to a spot where Arnoldo suggested we park our kayaks and place our hands in the water. As I slid my fingers slowly into the sea they immediately sparkled a type of bright yellow light you might expect from thousands of miniscule fireflies jetting in all directions just below the surface.

At first, I was not quite sure what we were seeing. Arnoldo explained that the effect was caused by a unique variety of plankton that, when oxygenated through movement, created a temporary luminescent effect. If I  moved slowly, I could see the individual flagella appearing like bright embers no greater in size than the head of a pin. Rapid motions produced a blur of solid light that lasted for only a few seconds but contrasted sharply with the darkness of the night.

Arnoldo, to my surprise, hopped out of the kayak and it was then that I noticed we were in water only about waist-deep even though it seemed we were far offshore. We were hovering above a long sandbar spread out in the middle of the bay. As we jumped in, the bioluminescence took charge around our legs and feet. Fish swam by and they too became incandescent streams of light jetting through the void.

“This is incredible!” I yelled to Arnoldo.

“I don’t just take you to the bioluminescence, I take you in the bioluminescence,” he replied proudly.

We spent close to an hour just floating – looking at the effect from various angles above and below the water. We attempted to devise new ways to showcase the light show and made “bioluminescent sea angels” by lying in the water on our backs the way children play in snow drifts.

I looked up from the water and absorbed my surroundings. Something about the sea at night has always frightened me. The idea of being lost, floating on a life raft or clinging to a piece of debris through the long night as waves tossed about has always seemed to me to be the most terrifying prospect that could befall a man at sea. Yet somehow, here, I was unafraid. Quite the opposite – surrounded by the light I felt a sense of total peace.  It was more spiritual than anything I had ever experienced in a house of worship.

Arnoldo lit a smoke while we talked about life, nature and the changes that had come to Holbox in only the five years since he’s lived on the island. He fears for the future and what additional development and tourism might bring. Last year he helped organize one night – the first annual Bioluminescent Festival – where every hotel on the beach turned the lights off for an hour so everyone could partake in this wonder of nature.  With the wonder of social media, however, it had the unintended consequence of drawing out hundreds from the mainland who camped out on the beach in anticipation of the big event.

“You can imagine the mess they left behind,” he said woefully.

At the same time, he spoke optimistically of the education and conservation efforts underway as well as the children he had introduced to the bioluminescence. “When they finally put down the glow of their smartphones and enter the glow of this water, they come alive again.”

Isla Holbox has the power to bring travelers back to life as well – but only for as long as it can hold onto its identity and nature. It has the power to heal and to transform. For adaptable travelers, now is the time to absorb its magic before it fades away like the ephemeral light of its bioluminescent sea.

Explorer of gastronomic and luxury hideaways, Marc Destito is an essayist, travel consultant and communications guru. He has represented leading global wine regions including the region of Champagne, France and has traveled extensively to premier destinations throughout Europe, Asia and North America.  Having previously lived in Washington, D.C. he is currently based in Geneva, Switzerland. Follow Marc on Instagram @marcinmotion.

The post The Bioluminescent Lights of Isla Holbox appeared first on .

From a swaying hammock strapped to wooden posts I closed my eyes and listened. Dried palm leaves above my head rustled in the wind while providing refuge from the midday sun. The burst of fresh cut limes being squeezed at a rickety mojito bar nearby permeated the air. There were no speedboats with parasails in tow, no vendors hawking cheap sunglasses and more than a handful of people walked along the beach. In the midst of it all, I wondered how much longer this place, so quickly cemented in my memory, might remain exactly as it was on that afternoon.

Isla Holbox, a 26-mile long, and less than a mile wide, island off Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula, holds almost mythical status among intrepid travelers and early adopters in the travel industry. Its claim to fame is that, from mid-May to late September, it boasts one of the premier locations in the Western Hemisphere to swim with the massive and graceful whale shark, the largest fish in the sea. It’s also one of the few places to witness the so-called bioluminescence effect: micro-plankton containing an enzyme that renders it aglow, similar to the effect noted among lighting bugs in summer. Adding to the little-known island’s growing prominence was its inclusion on the New York Times’ “52 Places to Go in 2016” list on which it was designated an “emerging eco-tourism gem.” Hence, when I had the opportunity to visit Holbox during a recent trip to Mexico, I couldn’t miss seeing the place that had left other travelers gob smacked.

Certainly, one aspect that contributes to the mystique of Isla Holbox is the fact it’s not terribly easy to reach. Getting to this unspoiled paradise not only required a flight to Cancun, but a nearly 2-hour drive to the dusty town of Chiquila, followed by a 30-minute ferry ride. Once finally arrived on the dock at Holbox, a retrofitted golf cart conveyed my travel companion and I the short distance to our lodgings. Along the way, the young cart driver explained that cars were not allowed on Holbox as the streets are, after all, made of sand. When rain soaks the streets, lack of drainage makes them impassable leaving tourists to lug their own baggage through the deluge. A metaphor for life perhaps. Thankfully, however, we were fortunate enough to arrive on a bright and sunny day.

On our first full day we ventured out to the aptly named Mosquito Point, which offers one of the most stunning vistas over an unspoiled stretch of silky-smooth white sand. Here, I waded out to a sandbar in only knee-high water where different shades of turquoise came together creating a landscape that felt like a Corona ad or a Kenny Chesney music video. A flamingo flew overhead and, although none were spotted on this day, I was told that sea turtles and manta rays often grace the area. With hardly another person in my line of view I took a moment to give thanks and let my spirit receive this gift of nature.

Gifts aside, it must be noted, however, that if the gentle whale shark is the first mascot of Holbox, the voracious mosquito must be the second. Feeding hour for the local mosquitos was a round the clock affair and venturing out at dusk was an assault akin to walking through a wasp’s nest. No type of repellent seemed fit for purpose. Sharing in my agony, I witnessed more than one pair of German tourists in the local sundry shop examining the potency of different brands with despondent looks on their faces and bulbous red marks covering their arms and legs.

As night fell, couples in pareos and tank tops braved the mosquitos to sip margaritas while being serenaded by a guitar player. Across the central square, while taco vendors and carts selling freshly roasted corn with chili or cream were setting up for a long night of nourishing revelers, colder than ice beers and creatively concocted mojitos were served up on the rooftop bar of the Arena Hotel. Meanwhile, Basico, one of the island’s more popular destinations for “beach cuisine”, was churning out popcorn shrimp in a tangy tamarind sauce, grilled octopus on pumpkin puree, citrusy ceviches and impossibly fresh fish alongside a daily cocktail for men and another for the ladies that served as a gateway to their sumptuous offerings.

That said, the most famous dish on Holbox is undoubtedly the lobster pizza. Many establishments turn it out but I was instructed to only partake in the original, first created at the popular Edelyn pizzeria in 1985. Chunks of fresh lobster meat heaped upon gooey mozzarella cheese provided a soul-satisfying conclusion to a day at the beach.

Come 10PM Holbox is a place where one could just as easily fall asleep in preparation for sunrise yoga as drink Dos Equis till dawn. The rhythm to the island is one of no rhythm at all. Sleep when you like. Eat when you like. Piña colada at 11am? Sin problema! Lunch at 4pm? Spicy guacamole on the way.

But in comparison to some of the more frenetic beachside boites where the younger set dance the night away, mornings on Holbox are decidedly tranquil. Latin vibes give way to beach blues and hypnotic strains reminiscent of a Hotel Costes soundtrack at many of the street-side cafes which offer Mexican specialties such as chilaquiles with fried tortilla, green tomatillo sauce and crumbled Oaxaca cheese. Simultaneously, organic juice bars on the main drag offer smoothies of pineapple, honey and chaya, a local herb considered a Mayan cure-all.

For luxury travelers accustomed to the highest levels of pampering, Holbox may not be quite the right fit. The pace of activity on the island is slow – real slow. Continental plate shifting slow. Moreover, the shores of this burgeoning Shangri-la can currently claim no five-star accommodations or large-scale resort properties (though a number of development projects are in the works). Credit cards are not widely accepted and it’s rare to find more than one ATM of reliable operability.

In the meantime, and in the place of all-out luxe, visitors to Holbox are limited to accommodations ranging from chic beachside bungalows to quaint guest rooms that combine elements of incense, reclaimed wood, and natural light. In addition to blending into the natural surroundings, a stay at most of these properties is often accompanied by yoga classes, massage therapies and other wellness activities which, at minimum, approach traditional five-star amenities.

Beyond its minimal luxuries, however, the fact that the island is not quite ready for prime time is exactly why it is adored by so many. Indeed, it is an incredibly liberating feeling to move seamlessly from beach to bar to restaurant in nothing but one’s Vilebrequins and Havaianas. With nearby areas of Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Tulum in a state of continuous expansion it’s unclear how long this version of Holbox will remain. But, one thing is certain―the time to visit one of the last undiscovered Mexican hideaways is fleeting.

Explorer of gastronomic and luxury hideaways, Marc Destito is an essayist, travel consultant and communications guru. He has represented leading global wine regions including the region of Champagne, France and has traveled extensively to premier destinations throughout Europe, Asia and North America.  Having previously lived in Washington, D.C. he is currently based in Geneva, Switzerland. Follow Marc on Instagram @marcinmotion.

The post Isla Holbox: Undiscovered Escape on Mexico’s Yucatan Coast appeared first on .

Lights! Camera! Action!

Like Hepburn and Tracy or, more contemporarily, Lawrence (Jennifer) and Cooper (Bradley), Tinseltown has enjoyed a long and fruitful alliance with our neighbors to the south. And, by neighbors, I am of course referring to Mexico, and more specifically to Puerto Vallarta, that cinematic hamlet on the Bay of Banderas that has long been a go to destination for filmmakers.

In fact, for more than seven decades, Hollywood and Puerto Vallarta have acted as confederates, working in tandem to produce memorable moments on the silver screen that have earned a bevy of accolades and yielded millions at the box office. To say that the relationship has been symbiotic would be an understatement, but to understand how each has often been cast in a starring role in the narratives of the other, is by far the more fascinating tale.

Then

Just to put Hollywood’s role in changing the face of Puerto Vallarta into perspective, it could quite easily be argued (and it often is), that Hollywood, perhaps more than anything else, put the destination on the map.

Consider this. In his best-selling book, Blow: How a Small-Town Boy Made $100 Million with the Medellin Cocaine Cartel And Lost It, Bruce Porter recounts tht until after World War II Puerto Vallarta was a coastal town so sleepy in nature, that it was not even accessible by car thanks to the rushing waters of the Cuale River which split the town down the center.

But a funny thing happened when Tennessee Williams vacationed in Mexico in 1940.

Williams’ visit spawned the short story, The Night of the Iguana, which was published in 1948. The short story gave birth to the film of the same name for which Puerto Vallarta was chosen as the location. The production, directed by John Huston and starring Ava Gardner, Deborah Kerr and Richard Burton, brought masses of paparazzi to the quiet (and largely unknown) seaside town during filming thanks in no small part to the immense star power of Burton and his famous soon-to-be new wife, Elizabeth Taylor. The film went on to become the 10^th highest grossing film of 1964 and earn four Academy Award nominations (winning one), while John Huston so fell in love with Puerto Vallarta that he bought a house in town, as did the über glamorous Liz and Dick, whose Hollywood pals followed them like pigs to a gin-filled trough of good times.

More Hollywood productions followed. They included everything from films like Predator, Kill Bill Vol. 2 and Limitless, in which Puerto Vallarta featured prominently, to the Johnny Depp-starrer Blow, based on Bruce Porter’s book set against the backdrop of the destination in the 1960’s and 70’s.

And the rest is, as they say, history. The fledgling beachside town of 12,500 grew up and was transformed into a metropolis by the sea boasting a permanent population of over 250,000 and more than four million visitors a year.

Hooray for Hollywood!

Now

After decades of providing a backdrop for Hollywood blockbusters, Puerto Vallarta is now enjoying its just desserts. An off the beaten path fishing village no more, the city is coursing with an ebullient life and starring role of its own that seamlessly meshes classic charm with fresh appeal.

The Malecon, the once sparsely populated stretch of beach that was Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton’s introduction to Puerto Vallarta, is now a thriving hub of nightlife in the city. Behind it, narrow cobblestone streets laced with historic buildings housing vendors and business of all sorts dominate the landscape. However, at the well-trafficked boardwalk’s heart, lies scores of distinctive bars and restaurants, like the popular Cuban chain, Bodeguita del Medio, where the mojitos are perfection and the music is authentic and sensual. Likewise, open air nightclubs in this popular zone overflow with tequila swilling tourists who embrace the free-wheeling, devil may care abandon that Liz and Dick inspired when the latter bought the former a breathtaking local spread with stunning views as a gift for her 32^nd birthday.

Speaking of that breathtaking local spread, Liz and Dick’s former home is today a spectacularly luxurious, nine-suite boutique hotel called Casa Kimberly (as so named by its previous owners}. Be warned however that, though Dame Elizabeth reportedly left all her belongings in the home when it was sold after Richard Burton’s death, not much history of the Burton-Taylor misalliance remains to be found in the remodeled environs of the property – beyond the sheer glamour that is its calling card. There is, of course, the bridge between the two “houses” that comprise the property, which Burton had built so that he and Elizabeth could cross the street and visit one another without having to face the prying eyes and lenses of the paparazzi.  And then there is the Elizabeth Taylor Suite which boasts, among other amenities, the original pink jacuzzi installed for the lady of the house herself. But beyond that, it’s just acres of Swarovski crystal chandeliers and marble peering out over the city that has since grown up around the property.

That said, In a fitting homage to La La Land’s reigning former first couple, with its dramatic views of Banderas Bay from every room, grand furnishings as ornate as anything one might expect to find in a superbly appointed Italian palazzo, private patios adjoining each suite, stellar open air rooftop restaurant and intimate but substantially extensive spa, Casa Kimberly sets a new standard for luxury  in a town that in recent years has come to be more often associated with discount package deals than grandeur and pampering. Which explains why something tells me, Liz and Dick would approve.

Elsewhere, the bay city’s once quiet outer boundaries continue to heat up with modern, sexy new nightlife and dining options. On Boulevard Francisco Medina Ascencio, for instance, you’ll find the ultra-contemporary De Santos, a restaurant cum happening bar/nightspot perfect for mingling with the locals where Mediterranean small plates dominate the menu. And just up the street, on the same boulevard in the “hotel zone”, you’ll find swank new nightclubs like La Strana paired with chic eateries like La Madalena, both of which attract a well-heeled, upscale crowd, not of the variety that would find wearing their underwear as a headdress either fashionable or acceptable.

As for the haunts of the current generation of celebrities who continue to rediscover and flirt with Puerto Vallarta, look no further than the exclusive enclave of Punta Mita, located at the northern end of Banderas Bay, which has attracted the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow, Charlie Sheen, Lady Gaga and Kim Kardashian in recent years. Popular stops for the A-list include the St. Regis and the Four Seasons, where they can be seen in their natural habitat frolicking in the sand.

Finally, one other not to be missed hidden treasure is the Grand Miramar, an exclusive all-suite luxury hotel located high above the Malecon in Conchas Chinas, an exclusive neighborhood that might best be described as the Beverly Hills of Puerto Vallarta. Perched on the highest point in PV, with sweeping views of the Bay. the Grand Miramar is an elegant escape within the confines of city made for escape. That it is a 20 – 30-minute drive from the more popular beaches and the heartbeat of the city is surprisingly a positive rather than a negative because, from its rooftop bar with unobstructed views of the shoreline, to its top-flight restaurant, in-house spa and excellently crafted cocktail menu, the Grand Miramar is more than self -sufficient in terms of meeting the needs of its demanding clientele. So much so that one might even imagine that this would be where Richard and Elizabeth might choose to live today if given their druthers. That is, of course, were Casa Kimberly not available.

All its Hollywood charms aside, perhaps the most endearing quality about Puerto Vallarta is not it’s celebrity-littered history or its swell new range of accommodations. It is instead the fact that it is still a destination where celebrities and mortals alike can let their hair down and just be. Viewed in this light, it’s not so much different from that tiny, scarcely visited fishing village whose natural sparkle first caught Hollywood’s attention all those many movies ago.

And that is a very good thing.

And scene!

Find out more about Puerto Vallarta at visitpuertovallarta.com.

Stay

Casa Kimberly
Calle Zaragoza 445
Puerto Vallarta
48300 Mexico
+52 322.222.1336
casakimberly.com

Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita México
Punta Mita, Bahía de Banderas
Nayarit
63734 Mexico
+52 329.291.6000
www.fourseasons.com/puntamita

Grand Miramar All Luxury Suites & Residences
Paseo de los Corales 139
Conchas Chinas
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco
48390 Mexico
+52 322.226.2520
www.grandmiramar.com

St. Regis Punta Mita Resort
Carretera Federal 200
Punta De Mita, Nayarit
63734 Mexico
+52 329.291.5800
www.starwoodhotels.com/stregis

Eat

Bodeguita del Medio
Paseo Díaz Ordáz 858
Centro
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco
48300 Mexico
+52 322.223.1585
www.labodeguitadelmedio.com.mx

De Santos
Boulevard Francisco Medina Ascencio 2485
Zona Hotelera Nte.
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco
48333 Mexico
+52 322.221.0240

La Madalena
Avendia Francisco Medina Ascencio 2025,
Las Glorias
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco
48333 Mexico
+52 322.245.1596
LaMadalenaPuertoVallarta

Play

Strana
Boulevard Francisco Medina Ascencio 2125
Zona Hotelera Las Glorias
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco
48333 Mexico
+52 322.108.4358
www.strana.mx

To read this story on the Huffington Post, click here.

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The drive through Baja from La Paz to Magdalena Bay was dusty and uneventful for the most part, with the exception of a bathroom stop along the way at a thoroughly authentic spot called Dolores’ in the tiny little town of Los Bacitas. I describe this stop as eventful for two reasons. First, it was the only time in my life I’ve been asked to take a bucket of water from outside into the bathroom stall with me so that I could dilute the contents of the bowl after I had completed my—er, uh, business. Yes folks, there was indeed a toilet (which I was told I was lucky to find, as opposed to a hole in the ground), but, alas, it was a toilet that did not flush. I held my nose (literally), did what I had to do and chalked it up to one of those “when in Rome” kind of experiences and thought nothing more of it—until now, that is.

The second thing that made the stop at Dolores’ so eventful was the delicious Burrito Machaca that the matronly Dolores, dressed in a colorful apron, whipped up for me while I meandered around her rustic ‘restaurant.’ In truth, the place felt more like her kitchen table, judging from the clothes hanging on the line just outside the kitchen window, the dogs barking and the dishes stacked up on the sink in the open-air space. To say that I had to shutter a healthy fear of contracting “Montezuma’s Revenge” before I chowed down on Dolores’ burrito would be putting it mildly. But after the first bite those fears went away. That combination of salty, shredded dried beef, fresh tomatoes and diced onion all wrapped up in a homemade grilled tortilla was the best thing I ate the entire time I was in Mexico. In fact, I still dream about it. I had sampled a burrito machaca before, but nothing like this. This burrito was Victoria Beckham MAJOR, kittens!

Anyhow, onto the whales! We arrived at Magdalena Bay, where California Gray whales migrate each winter to canoodle and give birth. It was here, against the backdrop of this spectacle of nature, that I received my second surprise of the day—and before you even hazard a guess, it wasn’t a surprise on the order of the new Hermès Arion Weekend Bag. It was instead that our whale watching tour of Magdalena Bay would not take place on a powerboat or anything even remotely close. No ma’am—we were going whale watching in a wooden panga boat, which I can best describe as a rowboat with a motor. For the second time I gulped and told myself to get on with it.

To my surprise, it was all fine. In fact, it was extraordinary, because our wonderful guide was clearly in tune with both the Bay and the whales. After navigating our boat out into the water, he turned off the motor and we would sit quietly in the stillness of the Bay and wait for the enormous creatures to emerge from its depths, often times so close to our boat that we could almost touch them. Then we’d race alongside the whales for a while until they decided to dive again. The cutest thing ever was when the mama whales swam proudly beside their newborn calves as they adjusted to using their spouts and doing the swimming thing. Aww. Even for a committedly indoorsy kind of guy like myself, I have to say it was all pretty breathtaking to behold—even if I had to get up at an ungodly hour to claim the adventure as my own.

The post Mexico Rediscovered: Whale-watching in Magdalena Bay — Wait, What? appeared first on .

Welcome to the hotel california
Such a lovely place
Such a lovely face
Plenty of room at the hotel california
Any time of year, you can find it here

– The Eagles

The Hotel California in Todos Santos, Mexico may or may not be the place The Eagles sang so lovingly about on their seminal hit song bearing the hotel’s name back in 1977. Nobody knows for sure really. Despite published reports to the contrary, the urban legend connecting the tiny boutique hotel to the song many consider a rock classic persists even to this day and the claim is not without some merit.

After a recent visit, I can personally confirm that there is a mission bell that rings regularly at the Mission Church of Pilar located next to the Hotel California in Todos Santos.  I can also confirm that the hotel resides on a sleepy road towards the end of what could quite easily be described as a dusty, “desert highway”.  And there is no doubt that for all its quiet loveliness and unspoiled charm, the bohemian chic hotel could also quite easily become “a lonely place” in a very short period of time.

That said, I’d hardly say there was “plenty of room” at the 11-room Hotel California, nor could I  say that I literally believe you could find a room at the popular hotel  “any time of year” given that the town was widely considered to be a pot smokers’ paradise back in the 60‘s and 70‘s. (For the record, “colitas’ is apparently the Mexican slang word for joint…just another link between the song and the hotel that may actually be a bridge too far).

But here’s the thing…who cares? The Hotel California is a charming and funky little hotel where you can kick back and enjoy a kick-ass Margarita at the property’s La Coroneda Bar & Restaurant in the company of some folks who make the pilgrimage to the hotel because of legend and some who just enjoy a good drink and good food. It‘s also a place where you can shop for jewelry, leather goods and ceramics steps away from the hotel’s entrance or sample authentic Mexican culture just outside the hotel’s doors as I did when I came across the cutest bunch of little girls practicing a dance routine on a neighboring square on a lazy, humid afternoon.

Whether you buy into the hotel’s mythology and connection to the Eagles song or not, two things are undeniably true:  It’s worth the drive from the neighboring metropolises of Los Cabos and La Paz and it is indeed a lovely place. (Oh and did I mention that nothing says welcome like a cold Margarita? Well yeah…that too).

Find out more about The Hotel California at: www.hotelcaliforniabaja.com.

MoxieQ Rating: Muy Caliente

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I recently had a wow-za lunch at the hip Hotel Guaycura in Todos Santos, Mexico. Just about an hour or so outside of Los Cabos, Todos Santos is a hidden treasure of a little village well-known for its artsy bent. Loads of galleries and craft shops line the main street of the sleepy town where time seems in large part to have stood still for the better part of the last century and a half.

Like the place it calls home, the Hotel Guaycura is steeped in history. In the mid-nineteenth century, the building that now houses the hotel belonged to the wealthy Domínguez family. Later, it was transformed into a school, a post office and even an art academy for young ladies. In the 1930’s it became a police station and then, after that, a boarding house for students from all over the state of Baja California Sur. In 2010, the space came blazing full stop into the new millennium when it opened its doors as the chic, upscale Hotel Guaycura complete with a top drawer bar, restaurant and spa.

Each room at the architecturally stunning Guaycura is individually decorated and loaded with personality which is, at least in part due to fact that the building’s structure could not be radically altered because of its historical status. Aside from all the mod cons like Egyptian cotton sheets, plasma televisions, iPod speaker and complimentary WiFi, the most stunning thing about the hotel is the way it blends the old with the new. Make no mistake…this is a thoroughly contemporary hotel that has remained authentically in sync with both its environment and its history.

Case in point, the hotel’s breathtaking rooftop sky deck. Though it overlooks the time-worn red roof of the town theater, the church dome in Todos Santos and acres of palm trees, the modern Venetian-tiled pool along with the surrounding ultra modern Sky Lounge would not seem the slightest bit out of place in South Beach or urban Hollywood. Pair all that with a sinfully delicious cocktail from the hotel’s Sky Bar at sunset and you’ve got the makings of one extraordinary experience.

Find out more about the Guaycura Hotel & Spa at: http://www.guaycura.com.mx/

MoxieQ Rating:  Glamazing

The post ‘Hot in the City’ Hidden Treasure: Hotel Guaycura, Todos Santos, Mexico appeared first on .

So…leaving the comfortably lovely Costa Baja Resort in La Paz, Mexico at the ass crack of dawn for a four-hour drive to Magdalena Bay to float amongst the whales was not to my thinking an ideal beginning to a traditional Living Wells sort of experience. That would be an understatement, to say the least. But that is exactly what I did, though as usual, I had no idea what I was getting myself into.

The drive through Baja from La Paz to Magdalena Bay was dusty and uneventful for the most part, with the exception of a bathroom stop along the way at a thoroughly authentic spot called Dolores’ in the tiny little town of Los Bacitas. I describe this stop as eventful for two reasons. First, it was the only time in my life I’ve been asked to take a bucket of water from outside into the bathroom stall with me so that I could dilute the contents of the bowl after I had completed my…er uh.. business. Yes folks,  there was indeed a toilet (which I was told I was lucky to find as opposed to a hole in the ground), but alas it was a toilet that did not flush. I held my nose (literally), did what I had to do and chalked it up to one of those “when in Rome” kind of experiences and thought nothing more of it — until now that is.

The second thing that made the stop at Dolores’ so eventful was the delicious Burrito Machaca that the matronly Dolores, dressed in a colorful apron, whipped up for me while I meandered around her rustic “restaurant”. In truth, the place felt more like her kitchen table judging from the clothes hanging on the line just outside the kitchen window, the dogs barking and the dishes stacked up on the sink in the open air space. To say that I had to shutter a healthy fear of  contracting “Montezuma’s Revenge” before I chowed down on Dolores’ burrito would be putting it mildly. But after the first bite, those fears went away. That combination of salty shredded dried beef, fresh tomatoes and diced onion all wrapped up in a homemade grilled tortilla was the best thing I ate the entire time I was in Mexico. In fact, I still dream about it. I had sampled a Burrito Machaca before but nothing like this. This Burrito was Victoria Beckham MAJOR kittens!

Anyhow…on to the whales! We arrived at Magdalena Bay where California Gray whales migrate each winter to canoodle and give birth. It was here, against the backdrop of this spectacle of nature that I received my second surprise of the day and before you even hazard a guess, it wasn’t a surprise on the order of the new Hermes Arion Weekend Bag. It was instead that our whale watching tour of Magdalena Bay would not take place on a power boat or anything even remotely close. No ma’am, we were going whale watching in a wooden panga boat which I can best describe as a rowboat with a motor. For the second time I gulped and told myself to get on with it.

To my surprise, it was all fine. In fact it was extraordinary because our wonderful guide was clearly in tune with both the Bay and the whales. After navigating our boat out into the water, he turned off the motor and we would sit quietly in the stillness of the Bay and wait for the enormous creatures to emerge from the depths, often times so close to our boat that we could almost touch them. Then we’d race alongside the whales for awhile until they decided to dive again. The cutest thing ever was when the mama whales swam proudly beside their newborn calves as they adjusted to using their spouts and doing the swimming thing. Aw. Even for a committedly indoorsy kind of guy like myself, I have to say it was all pretty breathtaking to behold…even if I had to get up at an ungodly hour to claim the adventure as my own.

MoxieQ Rating:  “Who would have thunk” Revelatory

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Mexico’s been getting a bad rap lately. Especially in the press. But I’ve actually got some good news about our neighbor to the south and my tale begins on the Sea of Cortez in the hidden gem that is La Paz, the capital of Baja Sur California, Mexico (and yes that is the complete and proper name).

Before I discovered La Paz, my experience of Mexico had been limited to what I like to call ‘tourista Mexico’ which by my estimation includes the most popular South of the Border destinations for Americans — Cancun, Acapulco, Tijuana, etc. And if I’m honest, while I don’t knock any of those places at all, they really aren’t my thing. Too crowded, too rowdy and too popular among the college spring break crowd do not a Living Wells experience make. The calm, tranquil, non-scene La Paz, however, is a completely different story.

What you should know is that though La Paz is not necessarily a sleepy town, it’s definitely a trifle drowsy if you’re looking for a party. Conversely if you’re looking for a relaxing, romantic getaway in a place with spectacular vistas, jaw-dropping sunsets and an embarrassment of natural beauty and riches, then La Paz should definitely make your bucket list.

Perhaps, most important of all, you should know that La Paz is considered not only one of the safest cities in Mexico, it is actually widely viewed as one of the safest cities in all of North America. So here’s to putting an end to the false impression some news reports may have given about safety concerns all over Mexico.For my part, I couldn’t have felt safer.

For the first part of my stay, I booked into a junior suite overlooking the Sea of Cortez at the ultra modern new Grand Heritage Costa Baja Resort which certainly set things off on the right footing. Keenly aware of the expectation that comes along with being the first 5-star resort in La Paz, the folks at Costa Baja have made sure that no modern convenience goes amiss for guests of the hotel.  Each room at the sprawling property includes complimentary wireless Internet access, coffee/tea makers, and 42-inch flat screen televisions with loads of America channels. Bathrooms even offer glass-enclosed showers that are kinda sexy if you‘re into that sort of thing. That said, be prepared for the fact that that there will be no long soaks in your suite at the Costa Baja Resort because there are no bathtubs in the rooms, which was fine by me because I guess I‘m really into “kinda sexy”.

Elsewhere on the property, there is a spa, and a number of restaurants with a little something for every taste and mood, from haute cuisine to beach bar casual. There’s also an 18-hole golf course that’s worth seeing even if you don’t care one wit about putters, clubs and little white balls. Not only do 14 of the 18 holes on the golf course have views of the Sea of Cortez, the striking Costa Baja Golf Club sits at the highest point on the course overlooking the desert/sea landscape and its pretty “to-die-for” fabulous. And that’s coming from someone who loves golf carts, golf clothes and golf clubs but isn’t necessarily gaga over the sport. Just a point of reference that I’ll not digress about further.

Outside the resort, the Malecon, the statue-lined boardwalk running along the sea down through the center of La Paz, is the big hub. Clearly it’s where locals like to hang out and it’s reportedly pretty happening on the weekends, though I can’t independently confirm that as I was there during the week. I can however confirm that Palermo’s, my favorite dining spot in town, is located right at the heart of the action on the Malecon. And, if you’re thinking Palermo’s is an odd name for a Mexican restaurant you would be correct. Just as the name suggests, Palermo’s is actually an Italian-ish restaurant beloved by locals and tourists alike because the menu is authentically delicious. (Particularly noteworthy from my meal, the pizzas, the lamb and the sushi…I did say it was ‘Italian-ish’).

Another must see in La Paz is the Paraiso del Mar Resort, which is tucked away on an island surrounded my mangroves in the Sea of Cortez. Accessible by boat from La Paz, the Paraiso del Mar takes luxurious remoteness to the next level. Because it’s a private island, the Paraiso del Mar truly has the feel of a community. There are no wild nightclubs, no lookey loos, and by my estimation none of the party people from ’tourista Mexico’. Just five miles of unspoiled beaches and endless outdoor fun in the island’s pools, on its tennis courts or engaged in tons of outdoor activities like kayaking with whale sharks, golfing, scuba diving and swimming with dolphins. The island is actually so delightfully removed from what hubbub there is in La Paz, that the last free shuttle to the island from La Paz leaves at 11:30 at night so unless you’ve got your own private boat, you’ll need to make sure you have everything you need for your stay before lights out (be not dismayed however, because the resort offers a grocery pre-stocking service, private chef service, a restaurant and a couple of bars in addition to running a local mini market to ease your transition to paradise).

Beginning to think about Mexico a little differently? I should hope so! Next up: whale watching in Magdalena Bay and discovering Todos Santos, the Hotel California and exploring Loreto Bay. Oh yeah…we’re going there!

Find out more about La Paz at: www.vivalapaz.com.

MoxieQ Rating: Sublimely, Surprisingly Relaxing

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