Talk to most casual wine connoisseurs about the history of American winemaking prowess and they’re likely to regale you with tales of wines produced in states like California, Washington or perhaps even Oregon. However, very few are likely to mention Virginia, or, more specifically, Loudoun County. In making this oversight, they would not only be overlooking the fact that Virginia, with its more than 300 wineries, is one of the top ten wine producing regions in America, but also the fact that the Old Dominion state, with its historic horse farms, rolling green fields and cliff-edged slopes, is the very birthplace of American winemaking.
With a history that dates back to the earliest settlers of Jamestown in 1609, winemaking in Virginia predates the earliest known instance of wine production in California by nearly two centuries. Moreover, the planting of the first vines in Virginia precedes California statehood by a similar amount of time.
Despite this significant head start, the road to Virginia’s current status as one of America’s leading wine-producing states has undeniably been a rocky one – notwithstanding the relentless efforts of everyone from the colonial settlers to our nation’s founding fathers Thomas Jefferson and George Washington to early pioneers like Dr. Daniel Norton who, in the early 19th century, finally succeeded in developing a Virginia-native grape variety that proved to be both resilient to the challenges posed by local pests and diseases and capable of producing wines of such quality that one vintage won an award for “best red wine of all nations” at the Vienna World Fair in 1873. In fact, but for prohibition, Virginia winemaking might have come to more significant prominence sooner thanks to Dr. Norton’s efforts. That said, fortunately, prohibition was only a mere bump in the road on the 400-year odyssey that has brought the state of winemaking in Virginia to where it is today.
Over the past half-century Virginia has witnessed a remarkable resurgence and transformation in its winemaking industry and Loudoun County has been front and center throughout. What was once considered an unlikely region for viticulture has blossomed into a thriving hub for wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike.
Beginning in the late 1970s, a handful of pioneering winemakers and vineyard owners decided to once again test the waters and plant vines in what was still seen as an inhospitable environment given Loudoun County’s humid climate and clay-heavy soils. Though their efforts were met with the same skepticism that had plagued their forebears, the unrepentant commitment to experimentation of this latest band of determined adventurers laid the foundation for what was to come.
As winemakers learned to navigate the region’s unpredictable weather patterns and clay soils, they began to recognize the potential for crafting exceptional wines that showcased the distinct attributes of Loudoun County’s unique terroir – the combination of climate, soil, and topography that defines the characteristics of the grapes and subsequently, the wine. What were once seen as challenges evolved into opportunities as winemakers honed their skills, developed strategies to enhance grape quality and embraced the diversity in grape varieties and wine styles that Loudoun County could produce.
While traditional French grape varietals like Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc found their place, Loudoun County also witnessed the introduction of lesser-known grape varieties that thrive in its unique conditions along with French-American hybrids like Seyval Blanc and Chambourcin and, of course, the native Norton grape. By 1984, Willowcroft Farm Vineyards, Loudoun’s original winery, which sits atop Mt. Gilead in a rustic 19th century red barn overlooking Loudoun Valley, produced its first wines and immediately won awards. It was a trend that would continue for the sumptuously positioned winery which has since won hundreds of medals in national and international competitions alongside the rapidly expanding community of winemakers that has since sprouted up around it.
One such winemaker in that community is Jim Law, a pioneer of Virginia winemaking, who is often credited with putting Loudoun County on the wine map. In the 1980s, Law recognized the region’s potential and established Linden Vineyards on the site of a long-abandoned apple orchard in the Blue Ridge Mountains, 60 miles west of Washington, DC. With a deep understanding of terroir, Law introduced European winemaking techniques to create wines that reflected the unique characteristics of the land and by 1987 Linden Vineyards released its first commercial vintage. Since that time, Linden Vineyards has gone on to produce internationally praised single vineyard bottlings of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Bordeaux variety red blends that are considered to be among the finest wines produced in the county. Meanwhile, Law himself is revered, nay idolized, by local winemakers for his commitment to his craft, which has also earned him plaudits from noted wine writers including Jancis Robinson, editor of the authoritative The Oxford Companion to Wine, and longtime Washington Post wine columnist Dave McIntyre, who once described Law as “the Virginia wine industry’s oracle.”
Another influential figure, and indeed pioneer, in Loudoun County’s winemaking scene is Doug Fabbioli, who along with his wife, Colleen Berg, established Fabbioli Cellars on a 25-acre parcel of land in the southern Lucketts area, just north of Leesburg in Loudoun County in the early 2000s. Notable for producing superior red wines, particularly Merlot and Cabernet Franc, Fabbioli Cellars has also won multiple awards for a diverse range of wines including Petit Manseng, Tre Sorrelle, Tannat and Chambourcin, reflecting Fabbioli’s passion for experimentation and commitment to innovation.
Conversely, Jennifer McCloud, another prominent Loudoun County winemaker, chose to stake her claim on history rather than innovation per se. In 1998, after acquiring a picturesque tract of land nestled in the bosom of the Bull Run Mountains, she established Chrysalis Vineyards with a focus on the Norton grape, the native American variety first developed by Dr. Daniel Norton in the 1820s. Under McCloud’s guidance, Chrysalis Vineyards has become a pioneering force in reviving and championing the Norton grape, which she designated and trademarked as ‘The Real American Grape™’.
Through meticulous research and experimentation, McCloud and her team showcase the potential of this native varietal, crafting wines that capture the essence of Virginia’s soil, climate and, perhaps most importantly, history. Today the winery is part of a 412-acre working farm known as the AG District which is home to the world’s largest planting of the Norton grape and encompasses two other food businesses – the Locksley Farmstead Cheese Company and the Little River Bakehouse. For her efforts in reviving the Norton grape and her commitment to preserving Virginia’s viticultural heritage, McCloud has garnered acclaim as Chrysalis Vineyards has become a shining symbol of Loudoun County’s dedication to authenticity.
The aforementioned pioneers collectively carved a path that has since been followed by a wave of new winemakers who have come to prominence in Loudoun County in recent years. Take for instance, Slater Run Vineyards, a solar-powered winery in majestic Upperville, Virginia started in 2010 by Christopher and Kiernan (Slater) Patusky, and Kiernan’s parents Bob and Alice Slater, continuing a 300-year tradition of farming by the Slater family along Goose Creek. With more than 12 acres of vines, including Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, Slater Run specializes in making premium Virginia wines in a dry French style under the careful guidance of French born and trained winemaker Katell Griaud. In a relatively short period of time, Slater Run Vineyards has emerged as a hidden gem for wine enthusiasts seeking a blend of natural beauty and exceptional wine craftsmanship.
Speaking of hidden gems, Zephaniah Farm Vineyard, is yet another family vineyard tucked away on a working farm. Beginning in 2002, the family began planting grapes as a way to preserve the family farm. By 2014, Zephania Farm Vineyard had been born and the family was producing a Cabernet Franc of such quality that it won silver in the prestigious Virginia Governor’s Cup. It was a feat that they would repeat in 2015. The charm of Zephania Farm is that the winemaking process is completely managed by the family from beginning to end with a commitment to quality over quantity. The result is wines that exemplify the expertise and passion of the family, making every sip a journey through the unique flavors of the land and its rich and wonderful history.
Lastly, no discussion of Loudoun County’s winemaking scene would be complete without mentioning Nate Walsh, a visionary winemaker and rising star who represents a new generation of vintners. After studying winemaking in New Zealand, Walsh returned to his family’s estate in Loudoun County to establish Walsh Family Wine in Purcellville in 2014. With rapid fire speed, Walsh became known for his hands-on approach and commitment to precision and the wines he produced reflected both traits and more. Local acclaim and international recognition soon followed, and many would say today that Walsh Family Winery is the go-to winery in Loudoun County because of Walsh’s efforts.
Adding fuel to the growth of Loudoun County’s winemaking in recent decades has been the fact that it has coincided with the rise of the region as a destination for culinary tourism and cultural attractions. As wineries gained recognition for their high-quality wines, they also became magnets for visitors seeking a holistic experience. Many wineries incorporated tasting rooms, farm-to-table dining, and cultural events, enriching the county’s cultural tapestry. The integration of wine with local cuisine and art further elevated Loudoun County’s appeal, drawing visitors not only for the wine but for the immersive experiences offered. Today, as Loudoun County celebrates 40 years of winemaking, the county can proudly claim to not only be the home of more than 50 wineries, but also a burgeoning cultural mecca in the heart of one of the most picturesque and visually arresting corners of America.
The evolution of Loudoun County’s winemaking industry over the last 40 years stands as a testament to the power of perseverance, ingenuity and audacity. From the tentative steps taken by the early pioneers to the vibrant and diverse wine landscape that exists today, the journey has been one of growth, adaptation, and innovation. Loudoun County’s winemaking success story is an inspiration for regions that dare to dream beyond conventional boundaries, showcasing that with determination, creativity, and a deep appreciation for the land, even the most unlikely locations can thrive in the world of wine. As the county continues to raise its glasses to the future, it does so with a legacy of passion, excellence, and a commitment to continuously uncork the potential within its flourishing vines.