With a British royal wedding on the horizon, there seemed to be no better time than the present to go wheels up again on my self-proclaimed “royal tour” of Scandinavia. This time I stop over in Oslo, perhaps the most personally intriguing of all the destinations on my itinerary if only because it was the city about which I knew the least in addition to being home to the royal family with whom I was least familiar. That said, tag along as I spend a whirlwind 48 hours in Oslo. But first, a little royal backstory (and again, if royal intrigue is of no interest to you, skip ahead to the “48 Hours in” section for a look at the highly recommended highlights of my visit).

The Royal Story

Just as in Denmark, the Norwegian monarchy dates back for more than a thousand years. However, for purposes of this particular narrative, the House of Glücksburg, which acceded to throne in 1905 after the dissolution of Sweden and Norway, will once again take center stage. That said, it is interesting to note that for the better part of the previous five or so centuries, Norway was essentially forced into alliances and ruled under the monarchs of its Scandinavian neighbors. From 1818 – 1905, the originally French House of Bernadotte, from which the Swedish royal family is descended, ruled both Sweden and Norway. And prior to that, from 1380, a single monarch ruled both Denmark and Norway.

Against this backdrop, it is of particular note that Norway’s current reigning monarch is descended from a line of monarchs that began with a king (Prince Carl of Denmark) who was actually elected by the people of Norway in a landslide popular referendum. In a rare turn of events, as the world around them roundly began to reject monarchies, Norway embraced the idea and after more than 600 years without a monarch of its own, Norway once again reclaimed one by popular demand.

Providing yet another example of the far-reaching import of the marriages of Queen Victoria’s offspring, the people’s choice was not only a member of the well-established House of Glücksburg but also married to his cousin Princess Maud, granddaughter of Queen Victoria and daughter of the then Prince of Wales and the Princess of Wales (born Princess Alexandra of Denmark), later King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra of the United Kingdom.

More than a century later, the House of Glücksburg continues to reign in Norway with great popularity. In fact, one recent report found that eight out of ten Norwegians favor the monarchy. All of which is very good news to the current members of the Norwegian Royal House which is made up of Their Majesties King Harald and Queen Sonja and Their Royal Highnesses Crown Prince Haakon, Crown Princess Mette-Marit and Princess Ingrid Alexandra.

The Next Generation

Before we get to the next generation, a few words must be said about the current generation inasmuch as the choices of King Harald V may very well have influenced those of his son and heir Crown Prince Haakon. Predating the marriage of Prince William, Duke of Cambridge to the future Duchess of Cambridge, by more than four decades, then Crown Prince Harald nearly triggered a constitutional crisis when he chose commoner, Sonja Haraldsen, to be his intended. However, after enduring a nine-year courtship, the couple were finally granted permission to marry in 1968 and the former Sonja Haraldsen became Norway’s first (and enormously popular, I might add) queen in more than 53 years.

Now how’s that for a Cinderella story?

Like his father before him, in 2000 HRH Crown Prince Haakon also made a marital alliance that shook the royal rafters when he married Mette-Marit Tjessem Høiby who was not only a commoner but a single mother of one. The picture of a modern royal, HRH Crown Princess Mette-Marit has juggled her official role, her professional ambitions and motherhood with an agility common to most contemporary parents (albeit with all the trappings of royalty).

After her marriage to Crown Prince Haakon, the newly anointed Crown Princess continued to study ethics at the Faculty of Social Science and the Faculty of Humanities at the University of Oslo before continuing on to follow courses at the School of Oriental and African Studies at the University of London where she took examinations in HIV/AIDS and Development and The Global Refugee Crisis, among other topics. In 2012, the Crown Princess even completed her Master of Management at BI Norwegian School of Management in Oslo.

Along the way, the Crown Prince Couple welcomed two children of their own –Her Royal Highness Princess Ingrid Alexandra and His Highness Prince Sverre Magnus. According to Norwegian constitution the order of succession is lineal, irrespective of gender, so Her Royal Highness Princess Ingrid Alexandra is next in line to throne after her father Crown Prince Haakon. In an interesting aside, the eldest son of the Crown Princess, Marius Borg Høiby, who never held an official title, nonetheless announced last year that he was leaving public life and planning to attend a university in California. Proclamations aside, taking into account Mr. Høiby’s status as something of an international heartthrob, anonymity may not come quite so easily to this member of the Norwegian Royal brood, particularly given his proclivity for social media.

Modern Connections

Where to begin?

First of all, His Majesty King Harald V is, as mentioned above, a direct descendant of King Edward VII and thereby of Queen Victoria, which makes him a second cousin of Queen Elizabeth II and the first foreign monarch in the line of succession to the British throne. It then follows that HRH Crown Prince Haakon is third cousin to HRH Charles, Prince of Wales and by consequence of his place as a descendant of King Edward VII, eligible to succeed to the thrones of the sixteen Commonwealth realms which include Canada, New Zealand, Australia and The Bahamas.

But here’s the more interesting connection. If you’ll recall from above, at the time of her marriage to Prince Carl of Denmark who would later become King Haakon of Norway, the future Queen Maud was the daughter of the Prince and Princess of Wales who would later become King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra of the United Kingdom.

Now it is established fact that King Edward VII was quite the playboy and well known for his romantic dalliances before and after succeeding to the British throne. Of all those dalliances, there was none more famously significant to the Prince of Wales and future King Edward VII than the one he enjoyed with Alice Keppel, his long-term mistress with whom he remained intimate until his death. In fact, so intimate with the monarch was Keppel that her role was acknowledged by the long-suffering Queen Alexandra who even allowed Keppel to attend King Edward’s deathbed.

In a case of history repeating, Keppel’s great granddaughter is none other than Camilla Parker-Bowles, Duchess of Cambridge, whose mésalliance with the current Prince of Wales only came about after a very public scandal that brought down one of the most talked about royal marriages of the modern era. Interestingly, Keppel is known to have thought discretion to be the key to managing royal affairs. Which is why, in the wake of Edward VII’s grandson, Edward VIII, abdicating the throne to marry the twice-divorced American Wallis Simpson, Keppel is attributed with having said, “Things were done much better in my day.”

One wonders if she would say the same about her great granddaughter if she were alive to see her in Clarence House today.

 The Royal Palace

Almost as if surveying its surroundings, the Royal Palace sits regally on a rise at the end of Oslo’s main thoroughfare, Karl Johans gate. It is the primary home of Their Majesties King Harald and Queen Sonja and also the site where the royal couple receives and hosts foreign heads of state. Surrounding the palace, is the Palace Park, one of the Norwegian capital’s first and largest parks, filled with gardens created around the ideal model of nature that prevailed in European horticulture in the mid-1800s.

The Royal Palace is but one of several royal residences in Norway. Other royal residences open to the public include, the summer palace of Oscarshall, Stiftsgården, Gamlehaugen and Ledaal.

48 Hours in Oslo

Following a short flight on Norwegian from Copenhagen I touched down at Gardermoen Airport in Oslo, picked up my luggage and hopped on the conveniently located Flytoget express train – feeling quite happy with myself, I might add, for having purchased my ticket in advance via the app for the train service. Obviously, there are other options for getting into the city, included among which are bus and taxi service, but I had been advised that the quickest, easiest and most efficient way of getting into the city was this particular express train and I couldn’t imagine that any other mode of transport could have been simpler.

Flytoget deposited me at Nationaltheatret Station right in the very heart of Oslo, which is where I would proverbially plant my flag for the next 48 hours. Upon arrival, I traversed the swarming platform at the busy station, which is a major hub in Oslo, then made my way outside to discover a fine and sunny afternoon (contrary to popular conception such do exist in Oslo).

Within a minute or two, I stood in the lobby of the historic Hotel Continental, just steps away from the station. Distinctively grand and imbued with the sweep of history even then, the lobby and reception areas of the more than century old hotel are currently undergoing a major renovation which is certain to ensure that arrivals are welcomed in as dazzling a fashion as they have been since the property first opened its doors in 1900.

Once settled into one of the hotel’s handsomely renovated corner junior suites, I stepped onto the balcony which overlooked the square surrounding the Nationaltheatret Station. From here I could glimpse the tiniest sliver of a view of the Royal Palace and I was fascinated to see how all activity in the city still flows from the Royal Palace which peers out over Oslo from a promontory into which the city’s main drag Karl Johan’s Gate directly leads. Standing at such an ideal vantage point, I could almost imagine what court life must have been like in Norway an age ago.

Armed with nothing more than Google Maps, I decided to take the first of many quick strolls through the city. Fittingly, as this was my royal tour, my first stop was the Royal Palace and the surrounding Palace Park, which is open to the public year-round. Immediately I was struck by how accessible the Palace was and how liberally tourists, and locals alike, enjoyed access to the surrounding Park grounds. The very epitome of a people’s palace, all around me crowds of tourists took photos in front of the Royal Palace, while others just milled about taking afternoon strolls or plopping down here or there for a quick rest.  For my part, I chose to take a lap around the Palace.

On the whole, I found the royal residence imposing in size, if not particularly ornate. However, of all the stops on the pleasant trek, my favorite was the Queen’s Park, formerly a private Rococo garden that is now part of the Palace Park open from May to October. Twas truly a tranquil delight.

My Palace tour complete, I strolled back down Karl Johan’s Gate into town stopping off at Egertorget Square to visit Eger Karl Johan, Norway’s largest purveyor of luxury goods, and continuing on to Nedre Slottsgate and Promenaden, the nucleus of a paradise of cafés and boutique emporiums included among which are iconic international luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Bottega Veneta as well as local high-end outlets like Kamikaze, Vincci and the Steen & Strøm department store.

Because, as the old adage goes, time flies when you’re having fun, it wasn’t long before I found that my reservation for cocktails and dinner at the Hotel Continental’s famed Theatercaféen would soon be upon me. So, I put my shopping exploration on hold and headed back to hotel to change for dinner.

Also opened in 1900, just one year after Oslo’s neighboring National Theater, Theatercaféen is an Art Nouveau gem. Once inside, one feels transported back to the grandeur of dining out in the early 20^th century. Walls are lined with an array of portraits immortalizing Norwegian personalities, authors, writers, actors, painters, musicians and composers who have been (or still remain) regulars at the restaurant. Meanwhile dark wood and leather banquettes pair, to dramatic effect, with intimate tables draped in white cloth under a canopy of ornate moldings, arches and vintage lighting fixtures, all of which add a uniquely romantic quality to the space. As for the menu, imagine a seasonal French brasserie with Nordic flair. As all things old are new again, the menu, like the restaurant, is at once retro and decidedly modern. Think eyepopping presentations of Beef Tartare served with Danish Rye bread, Moules Frites, Oysters and Caviar, Duck Confit and Truffle Risotto.

After a relatively early first night, I awoke early the next morning to continue my exploits and my first stop wasn’t far beyond the door of my suite. En route to breakfast at Caroline, I took a look around the property in search of the artwork for which the hotel is famous. In the Dagligstuen lobby bar, I found the hotel’s collection of works by Edward Munch, one of the largest private collections of its kind in Norway, while elsewhere I found works by the likes of abstract artist Jakob Weidemann and visual artist Ulf Nilsen. It is rare that a hotel is a mini-gallery unto itself, but the Hotel Continental is such a place, in large part thanks to its long association with the artistic community.

Following breakfast, I walked to the bustling Harbour Promenade, a seaside mecca of restaurants and shops, which was bursting at the seams with activity on this particularly pleasant fall morning. When I arrived patrons had already begun to fill the outdoor patios of the endless assortment of eateries of every conceivable variety that line the revitalized harbour. However, before I could get to far I looked into the Nobel Peace Center if only because I could. After all, when in Oslo.

I continued my walk along the Aker Brygge restaurant and business district of Promenade enjoying the breeze and the range of modern architecture that dotted it before arriving at the Thief, one of Oslo’s newest and hippest hotels. Formerly a haven for smugglers, thieves and scoundrels known as Tjuvholmen (Thief Islet), the ultramodern Thief hotel is today a favorite of the likes of Rihanna and superstar DJ David Guetta. A richly decorated selection of rooms and suites, state-of-the art gym and spa facilities, ultraluxe amenities and a credo of treating “rock stars like guests and guests like rock stars” are all part of the hotel’s allure as is its reputation for epitomizing cool and serving as a premier destination for nightlife in downtown Oslo.

In addition to an art space presenting the work of emerging contemporary artists, the Thief also boasts a Thief Music Unplugged series showcasing current stars and bubbling under artists in an intimate setting. Moreover, of particular note for travelers like me with a fondness for mingling, there are the hotel’s restaurants and bars. While the dark, sexy, art-laden Thief Bar, along with its signature cocktail menu and seductive mix of patrons, is always a happening spot, The Roof Bar is also an undeniably attractive spot on which to enjoy cocktails. Weather permitting of course.

In terms of restaurants, Food Bar, the Thief’s signature eatery, offers an excellent opportunity to experience global cuisine prepared with local ingredients and updated with modern Nordic panache. All of which explains why I suggest that whether you simply visit or actually book into the Thief, sampling its pleasures are a must.

Post-lunch, on my walk back from the Thief, I took advantage of the hotel’s proximity to attractions including The Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art and the Tjuvholmen City Beach to while away the rest of the afternoon.

The final stop on my itinerary was the Grand Hotel Oslo, arguably Oslo’s grandest and most well-known hotel, but, without question, the oldest luxury hotel in the city at more than 140 plus years old. That said, like at the Hotel Intercontinental’s Theatercaféen, all things old are new again at the Grand Hotel.

Having undergone a more than $250 million major renovation, the Grand Oslo continues to live up to its name and reputation as the foremost destination for Norway’s elite as well as guests ranging from world leaders and Nobel Peace Prize laureates to His Majesty King Harald V.

Only stopping briefly to savor the sumptuousness of the marble sheathed lobby, I headed first to Eight, the Grand Hotel’s new rooftop bar. More eccentric and relaxed in design than the other boites in the hotel, Eight represents the best of the rooftop bar trend currently sweeping the globe. Signature cocktails from the bar’s mixologists are not only stellar but especially unique for blending flavors and ingredients unique to Norway. Add to that the impressive views of downtown, the Royal Palace and many of Oslo’s most famous landmarks and you have the recipe behing one of Oslos’s chicest watering holes.

Next it was off to a light dinner in the Othilia Lobby Bar at the Grand, which is, aside from Eight, another of the hotel’s most luxuriously relaxed spaces. What I particularly enjoyed about Othilia is that it is the sort of establishment that invites the feeling of a private club. Joined by a guest, I ordered a cocktail, a club sandwich, and a caesar salad while my friend ordered a burger and while we noshed and chatted well into evening, luxuriating in the comforts of the excellent service and the splendor of the grandiosely proportioned room. We also did a good bit of people watching which is precisely the sort of thing for which the expansive “see and be seen” room seemed meant.

It was both the perfect place and the perfect way to wind down my 48 hours in Oslo – right in the iconic hub of the city in one of its most iconic destinations.

Next stop Stockholm.

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Counted among the most cosmopolitan destinations in South America, Buenos Aires is a city that blends the vibrancy of modernity with timeless sophistication, art, history and old-world glamour. Walk down many of the city’s streets and you’ll find that the eateries and boutiques that line them are alive with these qualities. But stay in one of the city’s leading hotels and you will find these qualities not only alive but personified.

The following are five hotels that embody the breadth and diversity of options for accommodations in contemporary Buenos Aires. Each has a unique personality of its own and each is, perhaps, in its own way, suited to a particular type of luxury travel. However, they all share in common a five-star appeal certain to leave no guest wanting.

The Leading Lady
Palacia Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires

Hyatt has worked hard over the years to ensure that its Park Hyatt brand is synonymous with the height of elegance and luxury. However, at the Palacio Duhau, in particular, their efforts reach an apotheosis. In this one exceptional property, the old and the new blend with staggering symmetry resulting in that rare instance where a hotel becomes a world, or rather a destination, unto itself.

On the one hand, there is the property’s grand original palace. Built in 1934 as the private residence of the Duhau family, the neoclassical building recalls the splendor of another era. Dramatic chandeliers and lighting fixtures along with scores of marble welcome guests in regal fashion to the heart and soul of the property. In this noble, more social wing of the hotel, you’ll find the stunning Los Salones del Piano Nobile, a series of soigné salons where the walls are lined with restored original boiserie and the tables are filled throughout the day with a smart set of well-heeled locals and guests, many of whom are drawn to the very popular five o’clock afternoon tea service.

Also located in the Palacio building is the clubby Oak Bar, so named for its walls which are lined with specially carved 17^th century oak paneling taken from a castle in Normandy. Richly furnished and blessed with an inviting 28-seat bar, the Oak Bar provides the perfect meeting place for an intimate cocktail – be it for business or pleasure. And, like the Salones del Piano Nobile, the Oak Bar also features a terrace overlooking the exquisitely landscaped Palace gardens which are akin to a private oasis in the middle of the city.

Across the gardens, on the opposite side of the Palace, is the property’s more contemporary addition which was completed in 2006. While the Palace houses some of the hotel’s most prized suites, the bulk of the accommodations are located in the more contemporary adjunct which is connected to the Palace via an underground art gallery known as the Paseo de las Artes Duhau. In addition to being a novel way to solve the problem of shuttling guests from one building to the other, there is also something intoxicatingly enchanting in the way the passage seamlessly transports guests from the best of one era to the best of another.

Sleek and modern, the contemporary building is equally an oasis but with a more minimalist charm. Rooms are spacious, tastefully decorated and perfectly appointed with an array of amenities that are especially ideally suited for the business traveler. Combined with butler service, state-of-the-art technology and views of both the Palace and garden, even the standard rooms are a cut above.

Finally, with the attractions, restaurants and shops of the Recoleta just steps away from this jewel of a hotel, you will find in it a perfect jumping off spot from which to explore the city or do business or whatever your visit may occasion.

Palacia Duhau – Park Hyatt Buenos Aires
Avenida Alvear 1661
Buenos Aires, Argentina
C1014AAD
Tel: +54 11 5171 1234

The Ingenue
Faena

Breathtaking is the first word that comes to mind upon stepping inside the main entrance of the Faena Buenos Aires located in trendy Puerto Madera neighborhood. Clearly the sort of space that was designed to beguile, it miraculously still manages to exceed its remit. Towering swaths of red velvet paired with theatrical proportions and whimsical interiors designed by Phillipe Starck, welcome guests to the jaw-dropping Buenos Aires outpost of Faena Hotels.

In a city largely defined by history, modernity is the tune to which the Faena plays. Sure, it may be built in what was once a grain warehouse but that is right about where the history lesson ends. In fact, it might even be said the Faena represents a new breed of elegance in a rapidly evolving Buenos Aires.

From its award-winning restaurants like Bistro Sur to its hipster lined “see and be seen” pool to its sumptuous rooms kitted out with custom-designed white leather furnishings, lapacho-wood floors and clawfoot bathtubs in majestic marble bathrooms, the Faena is like something out of a Baz Lurhmann-inspired dream.

As an added bonus, the hotel also offers its own in-house entertainment in the form of its Library Bar and 1920’s inspired tango club El Cabaret. Rojo Tango, as the nightly dinner and show at El Cabaret is known, is a particularly a nice treat especially given that, for all its novelty, the Puerto Madero neighborhood feels a touch sterile in addition to being a bit far away from the livelier Recoleta and Hollywood Palermo neighborhoods. Thankfully taxis are cheap and plentiful and Uber is also an easily accessible option.

Faena Hotel Buenos Aires
Martha Salotti 445
Buenos Aires, Argentina
C1107CMB
Tel: +54 11 4010 9000

The Glamour Girl
Algodon Mansion

A number of swank boutique hotels have sprung up around Buenos Aires in recent years, but the all-suite Algodon Mansion has earned a spotlight all its own. Located in a restored building of French Classical design in the Recoleta, the Algodon is a real gem of a property that will hold particular appeal for luxury lovers taking an extended stay in Buenos Aires as well as those who, like myself, enjoy living like a local.

Of particular appeal is the Algodon’s discreet location on a quiet, upscale residential street.  Just far enough away from the hustle and bustle of busy nearby thoroughfares to allow one to experience a different side of the city, it remains proximate to many popular hotspots and off the beaten path boutiques, cafés, and art galleries that might otherwise go undiscovered. In truth, hours of charm and amusement await in simply roaming the streets surrounding the Algodon Mansion. But, location aside, I would be remiss if I were not to acknowledged that it is in the interior of the hotel – in the accommodations –  where the mansion truly shines.

Beyond the subtly elegant lobby and wine bar on the main floor, each of the hotel’s individually designed suites is impressively turned out with sleek contemporary furnishings, hardwood floors, massive French limestone or Italian marble bathrooms, and an array of technological amenities guaranteed to make guests feel right at home. Moreover, every suite, boasts a separate living area, with some featuring working fireplaces and original artwork while others offers expansive terraces as well.

In terms of entertainment, the Algodon packs a lot of punch for a boutique hotel. In addition to the aforementioned lobby bar where guests can mingle with locals and sample local entertainment as well as wines and fare produced from the product of the Algodon’s estates in Mendoza, there is a rooftop pool adjoined by a popular open-air bar and tented cigar lounge showcasing a menu of drinks from around the world. Finally, for the ultimate in relaxation, the rooftop also houses a full-service spa offering steam, sauna, and massage rooms along with a range of treatment options.

Bottom line: If Algodon Mansion proves one maxim, it is that big, wonderful things can indeed come in boutique sized packages.

Algodon Mansion
Montevideo 1647
Buenos Aires, Argentina
C1021AAA
Tel: +54 11 3530 7777

The Heroine
Hotel Club Frances

Step into the lobby of the Hotel Club Frances and you will feel the tug of history. Famously known as the original meeting space of the eminent members and guests of the former Club Francés (French Club), a community of prominent French-born residents of Buenos Aires, the refined space now known as Hotel Club Francés has, over the course of the last 150 years, notably hosted everyone from French Prime Ministers M. Georges Clemenceau and Dominique de Villepin to Nobel Prize Laureate Anatole France and HRH the Duke of Windsor.

Today, as a private hotel, the original property combined with its newly constructed tower, maintains the standards and attention to detail that have made it a favorite among visiting VIPs for the last century and a half – albeit in buffed up environs that have returned a good deal of the original luster to Neoclassical structure. The grand lobby opens into a beautifully restored, yet still quite clubbish Mahogany paneled bar of the variety in which one might imagine the great minds of yesteryear plotting the future of modern society. Meanwhile a marble staircase leads to the hotel’s historic salons and meeting spaces, many of which are decorated with glittering chandeliers and restored works of art.

As for the hotel’s 28 rooms, they are spacious and comfortably furnished in a manner that shows deference to the history of the property (think antique headboards and Belle Epoque-inspired furniture) but also nods and winks to the contemporary with mod cons including flat screen televisions and rainfall showers. Two Executive Deluxe Suites even offer a private sauna and jacuzzi while one of the Luxury Suites boasts a more than 1,000 square foot terrace in addition to a private sauna and jacuzzi.

That this marvelous combo of luxe and history is located dab smack in the midst of the Recoleta is only an added bonus.

Hotel Club Frances
Rodriguez Peña 1832.
Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Tel: +54 11 4812 5235

The Grande Dame
Alvear Palace

Every major city has a Grande Dame hotel and in Buenos Aires it is very clear that title squarely belongs to the Alvear Palace. Majestically (and appropriately) perched alongside some of the city’s most exclusive shops on Avenida Alvear, one of the most sought-after locations in the Recoleta, the Alvear Palace represents the penultimate in luxury in Buenos Aires.

An abundance of gold leaf, sparkling crystal chandeliers, Louis XV and Louis XVI style furniture and meticulously uniformed staff welcome the arrival of guests which on any given day might include a president (France’s Jacques Chirac or South Africa’s Nelson Mandela) or a movie star (Tom Cruise or Al Pacino). But such arrivals are de rigueur for a grande dame hotels like the Alvear which is despite its grandiosity welcoming without pretense. Tis interesting to note that it is usually the yet to be proven pretender class of hotels that are the snootiest, while the true grandees are nothing but gracious to all. I’m sure there is some metaphor for life there but, as usual, I digress.

In terms of accommodations, every room at the Alvear offers shades of something special but the Lounge Suites and better are the real sweet spot. Clocking in at no less than approximately 500 square feet, Lounge Suites are strikingly appointed with contemporary furnishings that blend rather than detract from the architecture of the hotel. Meanwhile these especially exceptional accommodations also count among their prime amenities, butler service, complimentary ironing and bathrooms that are like sanctuaries in Carrara and Marquina black marble accessorized with separate tubs and showers and Hermés toiletries. Perhaps best of all, the Lounge Suites also offer access to the exclusive 1930’s inspired Alvear Lounge, an exquisitely outfitted corner of the hotel where guests can enjoy a complimentary petit buffet breakfast, a light buffet lunch, a glass of wine or a coffee, in a space more intimate than the hotel’s generally busier public spaces.

Speaking of public spaces, there are a few at the Alvear that are not to be missed. Chief among these is L’Orangerie, a staple among the Recoleta’s chic set, notable for its afternoon tea service, and La Bourgogne, the hotel’s haute French restaurant lorded over by Chef Jean Paul Bondoux. C’est magnifique.

Alvear Palace
Avda. Alvear 1891
Buenos Aires, Argentina
C1129AAA
Tel: + 54 11 4808 2100

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From a swaying hammock strapped to wooden posts I closed my eyes and listened. Dried palm leaves above my head rustled in the wind while providing refuge from the midday sun. The burst of fresh cut limes being squeezed at a rickety mojito bar nearby permeated the air. There were no speedboats with parasails in tow, no vendors hawking cheap sunglasses and more than a handful of people walked along the beach. In the midst of it all, I wondered how much longer this place, so quickly cemented in my memory, might remain exactly as it was on that afternoon.

Isla Holbox, a 26-mile long, and less than a mile wide, island off Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula, holds almost mythical status among intrepid travelers and early adopters in the travel industry. Its claim to fame is that, from mid-May to late September, it boasts one of the premier locations in the Western Hemisphere to swim with the massive and graceful whale shark, the largest fish in the sea. It’s also one of the few places to witness the so-called bioluminescence effect: micro-plankton containing an enzyme that renders it aglow, similar to the effect noted among lighting bugs in summer. Adding to the little-known island’s growing prominence was its inclusion on the New York Times’ “52 Places to Go in 2016” list on which it was designated an “emerging eco-tourism gem.” Hence, when I had the opportunity to visit Holbox during a recent trip to Mexico, I couldn’t miss seeing the place that had left other travelers gob smacked.

Certainly, one aspect that contributes to the mystique of Isla Holbox is the fact it’s not terribly easy to reach. Getting to this unspoiled paradise not only required a flight to Cancun, but a nearly 2-hour drive to the dusty town of Chiquila, followed by a 30-minute ferry ride. Once finally arrived on the dock at Holbox, a retrofitted golf cart conveyed my travel companion and I the short distance to our lodgings. Along the way, the young cart driver explained that cars were not allowed on Holbox as the streets are, after all, made of sand. When rain soaks the streets, lack of drainage makes them impassable leaving tourists to lug their own baggage through the deluge. A metaphor for life perhaps. Thankfully, however, we were fortunate enough to arrive on a bright and sunny day.

On our first full day we ventured out to the aptly named Mosquito Point, which offers one of the most stunning vistas over an unspoiled stretch of silky-smooth white sand. Here, I waded out to a sandbar in only knee-high water where different shades of turquoise came together creating a landscape that felt like a Corona ad or a Kenny Chesney music video. A flamingo flew overhead and, although none were spotted on this day, I was told that sea turtles and manta rays often grace the area. With hardly another person in my line of view I took a moment to give thanks and let my spirit receive this gift of nature.

Gifts aside, it must be noted, however, that if the gentle whale shark is the first mascot of Holbox, the voracious mosquito must be the second. Feeding hour for the local mosquitos was a round the clock affair and venturing out at dusk was an assault akin to walking through a wasp’s nest. No type of repellent seemed fit for purpose. Sharing in my agony, I witnessed more than one pair of German tourists in the local sundry shop examining the potency of different brands with despondent looks on their faces and bulbous red marks covering their arms and legs.

As night fell, couples in pareos and tank tops braved the mosquitos to sip margaritas while being serenaded by a guitar player. Across the central square, while taco vendors and carts selling freshly roasted corn with chili or cream were setting up for a long night of nourishing revelers, colder than ice beers and creatively concocted mojitos were served up on the rooftop bar of the Arena Hotel. Meanwhile, Basico, one of the island’s more popular destinations for “beach cuisine”, was churning out popcorn shrimp in a tangy tamarind sauce, grilled octopus on pumpkin puree, citrusy ceviches and impossibly fresh fish alongside a daily cocktail for men and another for the ladies that served as a gateway to their sumptuous offerings.

That said, the most famous dish on Holbox is undoubtedly the lobster pizza. Many establishments turn it out but I was instructed to only partake in the original, first created at the popular Edelyn pizzeria in 1985. Chunks of fresh lobster meat heaped upon gooey mozzarella cheese provided a soul-satisfying conclusion to a day at the beach.

Come 10PM Holbox is a place where one could just as easily fall asleep in preparation for sunrise yoga as drink Dos Equis till dawn. The rhythm to the island is one of no rhythm at all. Sleep when you like. Eat when you like. Piña colada at 11am? Sin problema! Lunch at 4pm? Spicy guacamole on the way.

But in comparison to some of the more frenetic beachside boites where the younger set dance the night away, mornings on Holbox are decidedly tranquil. Latin vibes give way to beach blues and hypnotic strains reminiscent of a Hotel Costes soundtrack at many of the street-side cafes which offer Mexican specialties such as chilaquiles with fried tortilla, green tomatillo sauce and crumbled Oaxaca cheese. Simultaneously, organic juice bars on the main drag offer smoothies of pineapple, honey and chaya, a local herb considered a Mayan cure-all.

For luxury travelers accustomed to the highest levels of pampering, Holbox may not be quite the right fit. The pace of activity on the island is slow – real slow. Continental plate shifting slow. Moreover, the shores of this burgeoning Shangri-la can currently claim no five-star accommodations or large-scale resort properties (though a number of development projects are in the works). Credit cards are not widely accepted and it’s rare to find more than one ATM of reliable operability.

In the meantime, and in the place of all-out luxe, visitors to Holbox are limited to accommodations ranging from chic beachside bungalows to quaint guest rooms that combine elements of incense, reclaimed wood, and natural light. In addition to blending into the natural surroundings, a stay at most of these properties is often accompanied by yoga classes, massage therapies and other wellness activities which, at minimum, approach traditional five-star amenities.

Beyond its minimal luxuries, however, the fact that the island is not quite ready for prime time is exactly why it is adored by so many. Indeed, it is an incredibly liberating feeling to move seamlessly from beach to bar to restaurant in nothing but one’s Vilebrequins and Havaianas. With nearby areas of Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Tulum in a state of continuous expansion it’s unclear how long this version of Holbox will remain. But, one thing is certain―the time to visit one of the last undiscovered Mexican hideaways is fleeting.

Explorer of gastronomic and luxury hideaways, Marc Destito is an essayist, travel consultant and communications guru. He has represented leading global wine regions including the region of Champagne, France and has traveled extensively to premier destinations throughout Europe, Asia and North America.  Having previously lived in Washington, D.C. he is currently based in Geneva, Switzerland. Follow Marc on Instagram @marcinmotion.

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Like so many of my fellow road warriors, I must admit to having something of a soft spot for France if only because my heart always seems to beat differently the moment I touch down at Charles De Gaulle airport in Roissy-en-France. Perhaps the feeling can be attributed to my recollection of the grand romances that have awaited me in the City of Lights; memorable tours of the Loire Valley, Champagne and the villages of Provence that have unfailingly left me in awe; the parties in St. Tropez at which I have twirled away the night; or those quiet sunny afternoons spent simply walking among the vines in picturesque spots like Reims during harvest.

Whatever the reason, ever since I first arrived in Nice by train as an unsophisticated, wide-eyed 18-year-old college student with outsized delusions of grandeur that were not at all belied by the massive backpack that hovered high above my head, I have felt an enduring connection to France that has been defined by culture, new adventures and monumental good times. Needless to say, when I arrived in Paris to begin my latest escapade – a seven-day road trip that would take me to Provence and Cannes and back – that gloriously familiar feeling of anticipation was immediately renewed.

Joining me on this trip was my friend and partner in crime, YouTuber Davey Wavey, who was, at least in part, the inspiration for this particular trip. Those who have followed our other excursions around Spain, across Texas and throughout the great American Southwest, will already know that Davey is the yen to my yang. If he’s Sunday morning, I’m Saturday night.

That said, we both take great joy in gently torturing each other on these outings and this time it was my turn to have a go at Davey (inasmuch as anyone could call a splashy weeklong visit to some of the most beloved destinations in France ‘having a go’). My goal for this adventure was simple and sweet – to show Davey the good life and how it could provide the perfect backdrop to romance.

Arriving in Paris on a Sunday morning, we picked up our rental car and began an 8-hour trek to Eygalières in Provence that would give new meaning to the notion of a Sunday afternoon drive. Though it was a somewhat grueling way to spend our first 8 hours in France, it was also a wonderful opportunity to ground the journey ahead. After all, in my experience, nothing forces local life into clearer focus than a road trip.

Late on that first evening, road weary and a bit bleary-eyed we arrived at the rustic farmhouse where we would spend the next couple of nights. Whenever I’m in Provence, I always find renting a villa or farmhouse preferable to staying at a hotel because I want everything around me to be as French as possible and this farmhouse abutted by an organic farm near Saint-Remy was exactly that – perhaps too much so. But when in France…

As far as the itinerary for our stay in Provence, we kept it light and flexible. However, I would be remiss were I not to acknowledge that part of the magic of Provence is the sheer exploration of the region and the little hidden treasures that you uncover along the way. In our case that meant stopping by a goat farm, milking a few goats and sampling a variety of the farm’s cheeses; meandering through the streets of Saint-Remy – popping into local shops sampling everything from olive oil to meringues and buying everything from perfume to swimwear; and settling down to meals on the outdoor patios of charming local boites likes Chez Fanny where the always reliable Steak-Frites was the star.

Bidding adieu to pastural charms of Provence, we continued on to the livelier Cannes where we checked into Le Grand Hotel Cannes, a part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World Collection (SLH). Set apart from La Croisette, the main drag in Cannes, by a striking garden and terrace, Le Grand Hotel is a titan of luxe even among the giants that border it.

With retro-glamour to spare, the Prestige rooms we checked into boasted stunning sea views, sweeping terraces and elegant touches including fresh orchids from the hotel’s very own greenhouse. It was 5-star luxury in the most boutique of settings and without a doubt the sweet spot of our trip, from my point of view. It was also the elegant home base from which we would dive into the glitz and glamour of one of France’s most notoriously enchanting destinations.

So, what does one do in Cannes when it’s not festival season? Why what one would do in any luxurious seaside locale of course. One dines, drinks, shops, hits the beach, explores and generally laps up the oodles of luxury that await at every turn. One might even do a bit of a gambling, if one is the betting sort. With no time to waste, we ticked off every box during our short stay with the exception of the gambling bit because, if there is one thing that I know to be true, it is that it is next to impossible to get Davey to go out after 11 PM for either love or money. What can I say? One has to pick and choose one’s battles n’est ce pas?

After an early solo breakfast at the Armani /Caffè on La Croisette, it was off to lunch at the clubby BFire on the private beach of Hôtel Barrière Le Majestic Cannes. Private beaches are de rigueur amenities for all the fashionable hotels in Cannes so it will come as no surprise that the one belonging to Le Majestic is among the most stunning (and most exclusive) in town. Over a lunch of fresh fish, steak tartare and salads, enjoyed a la plage on a perfectly sun-dappled and temperate fall afternoon, we relaxed into the laidback sway of life in Cannes surrounded by well-heeled families and patrons dining, frolicking on the beach and basically doing much the same as us.

From there it was off Le Vieux Port de Cannes, the marina that most notably plays hosts to the world’s super yachts and their billionaire owners during the glittering annual Cannes Film Festival. Surrounded by rare sports cars on the shore and a parade of resident yachts in the marina, we boarded a tender for an intimate private boat tour that would take us to Esterel and the Île Sainte-Marguerite.

For a brilliant few hours we sped out to sea, weaving our way around the aforementioned mega yachts, winding along the coast where some of France’s wealthiest and noteworthy citizens including the La Coste family and Pierre Cardin have built magnificent homes (homes that would in fact be impossible to see from any other vantage point), and discovering the many craggy, coves that are a hallmark of the region. It was an up close and personal view of a side of the Cote d’Azur that I had not hitherto experienced in addition to being a fabulous way to while away an afternoon on the French Riviera for those of us mere mortals not fortunate enough to own seagoing vessels of our own.

Following an afternoon stroll, we wound down the evening quietly with an elegant meal at the Michelin-starred Le Park 45 at Le Grand Hotel. Amid the splendor of the restaurant’s intimate and refined dining room, with the hum of La Croisette and sea as a backdrop, Chef Sebastian Broda’s kitchen plied us with a parade of the culinary wonders that have earned the restaurant high marks with foodies and critics alike. Never able to quite get enough of the town, after dinner I took another long turn along La Croisette, looking at store windows, peeking into casinos and generally inhaling the intoxicating life of the Cote d’Azur and its denizens. Before leaving the next morning, I would do more of the same because…um…why not?

For the final leg of our trip, having had our fill of the proverbial romance of the road trip, we ditched the rental car and took the TGV from Cannes to Paris. At this point, feeling that I had doled out lessons sufficient enough for my travel companion to take matters into his own hands, we took off in different directions upon checking into our rented apartment in the City of Lights. My first stop was Neuilly-sur-Seine, the posh Paris suburb about which I had recently read much and was curious to explore, if only because I never had. Actually, much closer to the many of Paris’ notable monuments than I had previously thought, the shops and sights of Neuilly-sur-Seine provided an amusing distraction on my first afternoon in Paris. But then again, we are talking about Paris, which for me is, in and of itself and as a whole, the most amusing of distractions.

Confirming my long-held fondness for mixing high and low, later that evening I decided to check out the American southern comfort food rage currently sweeping across Paris. I, like so many other people associate France with outstanding cuisine, but as a natural born Southerner, I wondered how authentic these new Parisien hotspots touting fried chicken and waffles and Texas-style barbecue would be.

Though I had heard great things about the fried chicken at Ellsworth in the 2^nd Arrondissement, my decision to chart the comfort food course was a bit last minute and I couldn’t get a reservation. So, as I was staying in the 11^th Arrondissement, I opted instead to try the chicken and waffles at Gumbo Yaya, a well-regarded ‘soul kitchen’ not far from the Place de la République.

Packed into a tiny space, with a line out the door, I immediately came to the conclusion that Gumbo Yaya was indeed as popular as had been reported. Once I was finally squeezed into a corner near the kitchen, I ordered a bit of everything – fried chicken, greens, cornbread, mac n’ cheese and, of course, a waffle. My conclusion?  Not bad.  I don’t think my favorite comfort food restaurants across the South have anything to worry about in terms of competition or being outdone by the French, but if you happen to be in Paris and also happen to be in need of a comfort food fix, Gumbo Yaya will more than adequately meet the challenge.

My final day in Paris was one of those dreamily ideal, gray rainy days that demand to be explored rather than avoided. I walked from the Place de la République to the Louvre, turning off into various shopping arcades, before stopping for a hearty, soul-warming lunch of poulet and potatoes at a café. Later that evening, I met up with a friend from Switzerland who happened to be visiting Paris. After dinner, finally aligned with something more of a night owl as a side kick, it was off to mini-bar crawl around Le Marais during which we stumbled upon a new favorite cocktail and whiskey bar.

The whimsically named Sherry Butt turned out to be a laidback, off the beaten path gem, with a menu of handcrafted cocktails that have already earned it a place in the annals of the “World’s Best Bars”.  Hip, mixology-forward, yet unpretentious, Sherry Butt served up a mean Old Fashioned that would rival the best I have ever enjoyed, delivering in the process a flawless nightcap for a flawless evening.

The final morning of my Paris itinerary was reserved for a visit to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs which is currently hosting the epic Christian Dior, Couturier du Rêve exhibition through January, 2018. An extraordinarily comprehensive retrospective of the House of Dior, it’s legendary founder and the illustrious couturiers who succeeded him: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and, most recently, Maria Grazia Chiuri, the exhibition is as much a celebration of France and what makes it so singular as much as it is a look back at the dazzling creations the haute couture giant has produced over the last seven decades. It’s also a great reason to check out the Musée des Arts Décoratifs if you’ve never done so before.

I could have spent the entire day at the exhibition, but alas there was a reservation and a flight waiting at Charles de Gaulle to wing me back home. As my Uber approached the airport and I began to mentally prepare for my flight, my formerly giddy heartbeat began to slow back to its natural rhythm. The bad news, as per the usual, is that I would once again leave a piece of my heart in Paris. The good news however is that I also knew full well that it would be waiting for me upon my return.

The LivingWells List

Provence

Chez Fanny

Place Mireille Moatti
Saint-Rémy
13210 Provence-Alpes-Cote D’Azur
France
+33 4 90 92 90 89

Cannes

Armani /Caffè
42/43 Boulevard de la Croisette
06400 Cannes
France
+33 4 93 99 44 05

BFire
La Plage Barrière Le Majestic Cannes
06400 Cannes
France
+33 4 92 98 77 32

Black Tenders
Port Du Beal
110 Boulevard du midi louise Moreau
06150 Cannes la Bocca
France
+33 6 30 83 88 72

Hôtel Barrière Le Majestic Cannes
10, La Croisette
06407 Cannes
France
+33 4 92 98 77 00

Le Grand Hotel Cannes
45 Boulevard de la Croisette
06400 Cannes
France
+33 4 93 38 15 45

Le Park 45
Le Grand Hotel Cannes
45 Boulevard de la Croisette
06400 Cannes
France
+33 4 93 38 15 45

Paris

Ellsworth
34 Rue de Richelieu
75001 Paris
France
+33 1 42 60 59 66

Gumbo Yaya Chicken and Waffles
3 rue Charles Robin
75010 Paris
France
+33 9 84 15 40 88

Musée des Arts décoratifs
107, rue de Rivoli
75001 Paris
France
+33 1 44 55 57 50

Sherry Butt
20 Rue Beautreillis
75004 Paris
France
+33 9 83 38 47 80

Watch Davey’s take on our adventure below:

To read this article along with more of my posts at the Huffington Post, click here.

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