Best of Menswear, Spring/Summer 2017

Taken as a whole, the Spring/Summer 2017 menswear collections were among the most wearable presented in some time despite the fact that they offered something of a mixed bag as designers took radically different approaches to the warmer months ahead – that is at least, in the Northern Hemisphere. That said, there were some overarching themes from the runways of Milano and beyond that offer insight into the looks that the stylish set will be hewing toward this season and next.

One of those themes is volume, or should I rather say, fuller silhouettes. While many collections still included slim-fitting styles, there was definitely a trend toward fuller and, dare I say it, pleated trousers, which have slowly been creeping back into fashion over the last few seasons. For those of us who have grown accustomed to those pencil-thin pants, wonderfully tailored within an inch of disaster, I fear we may need to start entertaining a bit of diversity in our choices. Likewise, looser fitting jackets, shirts and sweaters are also trending, in some cases, with exaggerated proportions from designers taking their cue from urban street style.

In terms of the color palette for Spring/Summer 2017, neutrals dominate the collections of the leading lights, with occasional pops of color being provided by the usual suspects like Moschino and Roberto Cavalli. Below we have picked the best of several categories, in hopes that they provide a bit of a style guide to you on what to wear as the temperature rises and the days grow more casual.

LivingWells Showcase

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This season, in LivingWells Showcase, we decided to especially highlight the collections that, in our opinion, served up the best, most cohesive looks for Spring/Summer 2017. Each of these highlighted collections is filled to overflowing with bravura pieces that we would wear from day to evening. They are a celebration of all that is modern in menswear distilled through a classic lens and they are filled with the essential building blocks of a standout Spring/Summer 2017 wardrobe.

At Joseph Abboud, that means a fashion-forward selection of beautifully tailored raw-edged silk and lined blazers in a creamy neutral palette, paired with full trousers, though not so dramatic in their volume as to detract from the classic elegance of the total look the designer channeled for the season. Meanwhile for New York-based designer Jeffrey Rüdes it means 70’s retro style flared pants worn with long coats and matching scarves, tailored suede jackets and black leather in various iterations all evoking a clean beautifully put together look. And finally, at Michael Kors, who has been on and off this list, it means a fashion oasis filled with classic pairings of blue and white in every conceivable combination. There are polka dots and then there are polka dots on polka dots and then there are even polka dots on polka dots on polka dots. What we love most about Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2017 collection is that it is so clean and classic and wearable. Truly one of the best outings from Kors in recent memory.

Of special note is LivingWells favorite Haider Ackermann, who, through all the whimsy of his outrageously creative designs, always manages to create stellar ensembles that are the highlight of the season. (Thankfully this season, among those are some more fitted looks that had us standing up and cheering with delight).

Classic Style

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Season in and season out there are collections that deliver timeless looks without fail. These collections serve up the classically chic staples of our wardrobes in the most meticulously luxurious manner possible. The pop may not necessarily be in the design, but it is instead found in the indisputable tailoring and fine fabrications employed to take the classics to ever soaring heights. This season, a tonal dusty rose suit from Bottega Veneta embodies the concept. As does the staple of all American staples, Ralph Lauren where double-breasted suits have a second coming in various hues. Ditto for Tod’s, Bruno Cucinelli, Berlutti, Cerrutti 1881 and Ermnegeldo Zegna the standard bearers of unadulterated sartorial perfection.

Trending

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As mentioned above, one of the major trends in menswear for Spring/Summer 2017 has everything to do with fuller, more fluid silhouettes. Inspired, drapey ensembles from Issey Miyake and Y-3 offer superlative examples of the trend as do more structured offerings from Yohji Yamamoto and Dries Van Noten. Oversized proportions are also on trend as showcased in collections from MSGM, Takahiromiyashita The Soloist and Vetements.

On the absolute flip side are the retro inspired collections of Roberto Cavalli and Alexander McQueen, where the silhouettes are slim and summon up a vintage conflagration of glam rock and disco era chic.

Jumpsuits

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Jumpsuits (or flightsuits as we prefer to call them) popped up in several collections for this season, making their presence known and their rise in popularity worthy of note. Shown casually in Ralph Lauren’s collection paired with flip flops and also as a decidedly more evening, late-night option by Valentino, the jumpsuit appears to be one of the trendiest and most daring menswear options for Spring/Summer 2017.

Swimwear / Activewear

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Two things that go hand in hand with spring and summer are swimwear and activewear. For Spring/Summer 2017 Moschino once again offers up a sexy explosion of color with rock n’ roll-esque flair. Some might call the creations gaudy, but we call them deliciously over the top for those with the anatomy to do them justice. Ditto for the latest collection from Pieter by Felix Gonzalez-Torres, where speedos in black and silver lame peek out from underneath nearly floor-length backless tank tops, severely low-waisted pants, cropped hoodies and, of course, shorts. Talk about bringing sexy back.

On the activewear front, though it might not necessarily be officially categorized as such, the latest collection from Siki Im takes a winningly Zen approach to active casual wear for Spring/Summer 2017 with looks inspired by the aesthetic of monks. Though it might not sound sexy on paper, the realization of the look in this collection is absolutely inspired.

Outerwear

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Though many might not necessarily associate spring and summer with outerwear, depending upon the part of the world you call home or perhaps where your travels might take you (i.e. the Southern Hemisphere of the globe), great outerwear is a wardrobe essential.

In keeping with the most popular silhouette of the season, loose-fitting cape-like ponchos are singularly preeminent. Best in class for this trend comes from Y-3 with a hooded black number that meshes urban street with city chic; Public School with its casual ponchos in black and yellow; Acne with a camel colored cape that could be the new trench coat; Comme des Garcons with a see through double-breasted vinyl cape trimmed in black that may well be the season’s outerwear standout; and Rag & Bone with a sporty poncho in black so versatile it could be worn to the gym or on an evening out.

On the tailored side of things, the Spring/Summer collection from Pal Zilieri featuring silk parkas and leather trench coats is a real stunner in terms of outerwear for the season. As is a sleeveless trench from Louis Vuitton and everything Marni, where jackets and coats kitted out with straps and quirky details are hipster chic incarnate.

See all our picks for Spring/Summer 2017 on Pinterest and be sure to follow TheDuaneWells.